Cilantro opened its doors last week after being closed for over a year due to renovations at MiCasa. Naturally, I was expecting to be wowed by the “transformation”. Instead, the familiar cream coloured upholstery with circular seating greeted me. To put it succinctly, it was like visiting an old friend. Bathed in warm tones thanks to the the large barrel-like light fixtures that diffused an even but mellow glow all around the perimeter of the room, it appeared like time had stood still in this place. The room resounded with laughter. Bald Eagle’s friend at the next table apologized for the noise.
“No, don’t apologize,” I said. “It’s fine.”
I turned to Bald Eagle.
“I love the sound of laughter in a restaurant.”
“Why?” he asked me.
“It’s the sound of happiness.”
Over the years, it has become evident to me that a good meal is elevated in the fellowship of good friends, and a bad meal is mitigated by the same virtue.
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In preparation for this post, and because I wasn’t quite sure how I was going to articulate my thoughts about the all-new Cilantro, I read a couple of my old posts. One was written two years ago, when we celebrated our wedding anniversary over one of the most amazing meals I had eaten (in my lifetime, up to 2007) at Cilantro, and the other was written last year, when Cilantro’s sister-restaurant, Sage, had newly opened. Sage filled the void that Cilantro had left behind, and in the latter post, I asked the question, how is Sage different from Cilantro? Now, more than a year later and after Sage has established itself as a leading fine-dining restaurant in KL, I find myself asking the same question but in reversed fashion – how is Cilantro different from Sage? When Cilantro prices itself significantly higher than Sage, there must be enough reasons to justify it, other than the fact that Chef Takashi Kimura is helming the kitchen in Cilantro (Chef Takashi has left Sage in the able hands of Chef Daniel). His genius in cooking is, of course, a premium, but I don’t think Sage will suffer too much in his absence. Better quality ingredients at Cilantro? What does that say about Sage? Location? Perhaps. Ampang, with its loftier abodes and affluent residents, does hold an edge over a busy shopping mall.
Don’t get me wrong. I thought the food at Cilantro was good that night. We both ordered from the Degustation Menu (RM300++ per person). The ala carte menu, listing all of five appetizers (from RM58 to RM118) and six mains (from RM118 to RM268), seemed to be there merely to justify the reasonableness of the pricing of the Degustation Menu (some items on the menu are changed daily). Die-hard Cilantro fans will rejoice at the sight of the truffle butter served with freshly baked bread.
“Welcome home.”
“It’s good to be back.”
“I’ve missed you, my truffle butter.”
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The amuse bouche, hamachi served on a block of ice, is a visual marvel. The first serving of hors d’oeuvres consist of a portion of angel hair pasta with sea urchin (which is my favourite of the lot due to the masterful combination of a perfectly cooked pasta and creamy uni), cured saba with nasu and avruga, venison with cuttlefish and konbu, Japanese oyster with kyuri and ponzu, and Choya umeshu (yes, the drink). All the bite sized portions tease and tempt the palate for the next serving. Pan fried unagi with foie gras, is a classic Cilantro dish. Coated with flour and fried, it offers a crisp surface and a rich and melting centre. Absolutely perfect. A soup comes next – a seafood broth that is brought to the table in a kettle, then poured over slices of abalone and Hokkaido scallop, just barely cooking them. Whilst I am a big fan of Chef Takashi’s clear soups, always so intense in flavour thanks to a medley of ingredients that caress the palate, this is on the salty side, but it contrasts well with the sweetness of the scallop. My main course is Maine lobster with Americaine sauce, which contrary to what its name may imply, is actually a classic French recipe. Cooking it is apparently a laborious process which involves shelling the lobster and cooking it in a sauce that boasts at least ten ingredients including wine, stock and garlic. The resultant dish is extremely flavoursome. Bald Eagle’s grilled Japanese wagyu, with high level of marbling is cooked medium to enable the fat to be turned to a nice crisp, with a texture resembling grilled bits of char siew. The meat, is as expected, exquisite. And desserts – chocolate terrine with pistachio ice-cream – possibly one of the better desserts I’ve had the pleasure of sampling in either Sage or Cilantro. After all, it is hard to go wrong with a chocolate and pistachio combination.
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So you see, I can’t quite fault the food at Cilantro. And yet, there was something missing. Portions were sufficient, and service was excellent thanks to an experienced crew. At first, I wondered if it was due to my changing tastebuds. Perhaps, a little. I worried about the fact that maybe I was a little jaded. Perhaps I was. The food that I ate that night was perfect in every way thanks to the use of the freshest ingredients and Chef Takashi’s expertise, but it didn’t excite me because the menu that night lacked creativity. A case of reality not meeting expectations.
Nevertheless, this restaurant is still the one to beat.
Cilantro
MiCasa All Suite Hotel
368B, Jalan Tun Razak
50400 Kuala Lumpur.
Tel: 03-2179 8082
Opening hours: Dinner – 6.00pm to 10.30pm, Lunch (from mid January 2010) – Fridays only – 12.00noon to 2.00pm. Closed Sundays.
(Note: Word has it that the famous Friday lunches at Cilantro will be priced at RM150nett (no alcohol) with free corkage on spirits.)
Check out Eat Drink KL for further reviews on Cilantro.
Truffle butter
Hamachi
Assorted Hors d’Oeuvres
Japanese oyster
Unagi and foie gras
Abalone and hokkaido scallop soup
Grilled Japanese beef
Chocolate terrine with pistachio ice cream
i can see that you are very fast too, oh well, it was after an old friend that you havent seen in awhile.
Oh my…. the truffle butter! MY FAVOURITE! ( big fonts, bolded if possible).
Love all your awesome food shots !! simply yummy !!
I know what was missing – US!
Love the shot of the Hamachi. It looks like it’s floating! So beautiful
yeah, there often seems to be that disconnect between expectations and reality, rite… on one hand, i do think the food here is just as good as it used to be, but then somehow, it didn’t take my breath away the way it used to…
hope to bump into u again soon, perhaps when we both least expect it! 😀
maybe it’s coz we’ve been spoilt by many other good restaurants that we have come across during our travels. I don’t think you’re jaded.. you’re just harder to please now.. but that’s good isn’t it? truffle butter here i come.. (erm, Jan i think.. :P) xoxo,ciki
Welcome back C! Expectations are often never met. But don’t cha worry, am sure Cilantro will be back to its full glory after the dust settles. Only one way to find out, lets go!
p.s/ was at Sage yesterday and had a wonderful lunch. Chef Daniel alright!
300 per person (not inc. drinks) ah? 🙁
(Hmm… mebbe if I start saving up now I can go next year. Man. Miss Cilantro. Only ate there once before, many years ago, and loved it)
Been there only once just before it was closed, would love to go there again, but most probably can’t afford the Degustation menu :S
I AM HUNGRY
Your tastesbud’s aren’t jaded dear. I agree with Ciki. Your tastebud’s have just matured, as with good wine…over time 🙂 Still saving a visit here for a special occasion 😛
in this case, I will most probably wait until their Friday lunch menu is launched 🙂
where have u been? no updates for a while already! haha
I like the sound of happiness, and cilantro is definitely a place for one with deep pockets 😀
lotsofcravings: Yar, I woke up from my sleep.
Neko Hime: I know! We ate 4 servings of the truffle butter that night!
NasiLemakLover: Thanks very much!
ALilFatMonkey: Yes, why weren’t you there??
Sean: Always a pleasure to see you. I know the best way to “bump” into you…..see ya at the next opening! hehe.
ciki: LOL…yes, you will love the truffle butter. Enjoy Cilantro in Jan!
Paprika: Good to know that Chef Daniel can hold the fort. I’ll still continue to patronise Sage.
J: Not incl drinks. So expect to fork out another couple of hundreds per person for drinks.
KY: Was comparing their pricing with the old Cilantro. They’re definitely putting themselves in the upper niche market.
unkaleong: What, not celebrating there for your birthday??
thule aka leo: Yeah, that’d be worth it, man. Somemore can bring your own wines there, corkage free. hoohoo.
ladyironchef: Busy with work. 🙁 Betcha had a great time in Sydney, eh?
Something seems different about this post. Can’t quite fault it – ample photos and impeccable commentary thanks to your mastery of the language. And yet, there is something missing.
At first, I wondered if it was due to the stark and somewhat dull photos of the minimalistic food against a wholly white background. Perhaps, a little. I worried about the fact that maybe I was too used to your usual vibrantly coloured shots and razor-sharp witty text. Perhaps I was.
This post is perfect in every way thanks to the use of the food visuals and flawless English, but it didn’t excite me because the photos and text lacked creativity.
A case of reality not meeting expectations.
Saja la.. 😀
You’ve spoilt me like how FBB spoilt you guys with his stupendous legendary afternoon-to-late-night/early-morning parties..
yes.. me thinks a foodies’ tastebuds does get “matured” after a while.
And with the travellin u been this yr plus the Michellin star meals..u’ll start lookin for something “more”? somethin to surpass wht u have had.
gfad: Bitch. 😛
thenomadGourmand: I still appreciate a good char koay teow. 🙂
Jaded tastebuds or matured tastebuds? same thing to me. And the best way to cure it is to go back to basics. Simple hawker fare and tai chow. Then your tastebuds will be craving for some finer ingredients. Works everytime! :))
I lup u too. Next time I come back, we’ll have chap fan at that corner coffee shop. 😀
it’s the truffle butter’s fault la, i tell ya. 4 servings of it sure feels like climaxing 4 times in a night. where got mood for other stuffs after that?
try 1 serving and see how it goes la. and bring me along cos i’ve not been there before. it’s about time. 🙂
Happy Holidays to you, the bald eagle and all your loved ones!
Merry Christmas and happy new year babes..see you in 2010!! muaks!
I wasn’t there for obvious reasons. I’m also “a poor lil’ monkey”
dear lord, when i grow up, i want to be rich like thamby and mr thamby, so i can afford to splurge at places like cilantro. amin amin yarabal amin.
[looking in mirror to see if the green palour has left the face]
Aren’t you appalled at the upward march of prices? I am. RM100 to RM300 for mains??? These are clearly international prices.
Cilantro was certainly good at the old prices but not outstanding. I found the pairing of “rich” and “rich” ingredients like unagi and foie gras to be overkill.
My last meal at Sage was a great disappointment for me, I am not going back.
Perhaps I am a grumpy pot or just discerning???
we’ve started our Executive Friday Luncheon. it’s a 4 course set menu with a complimentary glass of Kir Royale. 🙂
Cool, Jason! Would be great if you could tell us how much the lunch is too. 🙂 Thanks!
our set lunch is priced at RM150nett per person (2 appetizers, main and dessert). also, it is corkage free for lunch so you can bring your bottle of wine or champagne…
Jason: Music to my ears. Will come for lunch soon! 🙂 Meena.
hi, do u mind sharing how u set your camera to shoot those food photos?
hi ichiro! I shot these pics with a Canon 500D and a 50mm f1.8 lens. Most of the settings were at f2.8.
I love the way you ended this writeup with …
“Nevertheless, this restaurant is still the one to beat.”
Wishing you a Blessed Christmas and wonderful new year, hugs!