Li Yen, Ritz-Carlton, Kuala Lumpur – Standard Chartered Extravagant 8 Menu

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Hokkien Fried Rice – a melange of assorted seafood (prawns, scallop), chicken and mushrooms, cooked in a thick sauce, with rice

Last Monday, I took almost an hour and half to arrive at work.  The cause of the jam was an overturned cement truck somewhere in Cheras.  Now that wouldn’t seem so unbelievable except that the jam that I was caught in began at the Subang Jaya point of the Federal Highway.  Sometimes, I wish I could get on a helicopter and observe driving habits during peak hours.  I’ve spent enough time in traffic to mull over the meaning of life and traffic concerns and now I want to save the world from bad drivers.  I think I’ve finally found the reason for my existence and it’s wonderful to be able to share it with my readers.

Li Yen restaurant (SIGNATURE)
Li Yen at the Ritz-Carlton, Kuala Lumpur (photograph courtesy of the Ritz-Carlton)

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Peking duck served with steamed sesame pancakes – a specialty at Li Yen and faultless

The Christmas carols have barely begun to dissipate in my memory, but in the blink of an eye, that other orgiastic festival that brings with it an endless slew of lavish banquets assails me with the speed of an oncoming train. Everywhere I go, the ubiquitous jingle of Kongsi permeates the air, reminding me of a childhood gone by, happily spent in Penang and Klang, where the smell of gunpowder lingered in the air, as children with nary a care in the world played fireworks to usher in the New Lunar Year.  I can hear Tangechi telling me, “Oi, masuk Cina la”, his constant reminder to embrace the other half of my being.

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Prosperity Salmon Yee Sang – contained thick slices of raw salmon

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Steamed patin fish with superior soya sauce

I spent the end of 2010 and most of 2011 with the sniffles, and while I revelled in the sympathy in the beginning, I was mostly embarrassed about it in the third and fourth week of my illness.  My mother-in-law would make random calls to me asking me to take everything from Vitamin C to evening primrose oil while the rest of my well-meaning family members recommended other natural remedies ranging from a type of bitter leaf that can cure everything from the common cold to cancer, to manuka honey with lemon.  Friends googled articles online on the joys of consuming ginger and 10 ways to stop coughing in your mother-in-law’s face.  What made it worse was that I had all these food reviews to attend, courtesy of Standard Chartered Bank Malaysia and the various restaurants participating in the Extravagant 8 Chinese New Year campaign, and I wanted to be able to taste everything.

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Double-boiled assorted seafood soup – Standard Chartered does not support the consumption of sharks fin soup, a popular delicacy in Chinese restaurants, and has requested that none of the menus contain that ingredient. In this context, the various restaurants have come up with different types of soups, some more complex than others. The soup served at Li Yen contained prawns, grouper, crab, scallops, fish maw and bamboo piths which took 7 hours to boil.

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Stir-fried assorted mushrooms and asparagus

Unfortunately, the pinnacle of my illness was at the food review of Li Yen, and I was burdened with a tongue that could not taste and a body that would rather be wrapped in a blanket instead of a thin black dress.  Thankfully, I could feel textures (the peking duck was very crispy, the steamed patin was fresh and firm to the touch, and the double-boiled seafood soup contained all the comforts for a sick person in a thin black dress).  The food at Li Yen is predominantly Cantonese, and will satisfy the health-conscious thanks to the use of less oil in the preparation, so I suppose I could call it a blessing that I was eating at Li Yen that night.

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Braised dried scallops with dried oysters and sea moss – the dried oysters were sourced from Hong Kong while all other ingredients were brought in from Japan

In conjunction with the Chinese New Year celebration this year, the best chefs from 8 top Chinese restaurants in the Klang Valley have customised special Extravagant 8 menus, priced at RM888++ for a table of 8, exclusively for Standard Chartered credit card holders.  The menus are available from January 20 to February 17, 2011.  More details on the restaurants, their offerings and T&Cs are available at the Standard Chartered website.

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Deep-fried yam with lunar cake – a sure-win yam and nian gao combination

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Chef Leung Kwai Hong (61), born in China, with experience in Hong Kong, Japan and Korea.  He also loves swimming and travelling, and his motto is “Whatever you do, you must be hardworking, then you will eventually succeed”.  Wise words indeed.

Thank you Standard Chartered Bank Malaysia and Ritz Carlton for your kind invitation.  More reviews can be found here:-
Bangsar-Babe
Memoirs of a Chocoholic
Iamthewitch
Foodpoi
KYSpeaks

Li Yen
Ritz-Carlton, Kuala Lumpur

Tel: 03-2142 8000

Note:  This is the first of five reviews under the Standard Chartered Extravagant 8 campaign.  Prepare for a visual feast!

Hennessy X.O Appreciation Grows Gastronomy 2010 with Chef Alvin Leung

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We had just come back from Bali the day before, browner than normal and exhausted from the days of doing…well…almost nothing, except for eating and lazing by the pool with martinis in our hands.  The weather gods were not on our side.  Despite the sunny days which allowed us to get our tan, the evenings were wetter than a striptease bar and we were thus compelled to enjoy our sunsets huddled in claustrophobic spaces.

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I used to sink into severe depression at the end of vacations. I’d cry myself to sleep because I’d always have left a part of myself miles away in some foreign land.   My most meaningful holidays are usually the ones spent with people who matter, and I’m not perturbed about not having time to see famous sights.  You can’t carry those in your heart, but people…you can.

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Glass Garden

On my last trip to Hong Kong, I was rather devastated about not having time to dine at Alvin Leung’s Michelin-starred restaurant, Bo Innovation.  I had researched his cuisine and printed out information in anticipation of a mind-blowing experience, but it never happened, and so I was quite ecstatic when the PR company for Hennessy X.O Appreciation Grows series, Milk PR, contacted me and asked if I’d be interested to attend the event and sample Alvin Leung’s cuisine.   I did several leaps of joy in my rather subdued accounting office, then sent off a reply immediately saying Yes Yes Yes!

Meeting Alvin Leung was like a dream come true.   Not all my wishes materialised, though – I had wanted to try his molecular xiu long bao, but it wasn’t on the menu.   I had no cause for complaint, though, as the menu for the two nights that I was present managed to put a big smile on my face.  Two menus were offered to guests – the non-vegetarian and vegetarian menu.   Like me, many others sniggered at the idea of opting for a vegetarian menu for a dinner that was worth RM800 per head.  No foie gras?  No wagyu?  How cannnn…?

I grew up in a household where we were vegetarians one day a week, and although I am averse to certain types of leafy green vegetables, I wholeheartedly approve of vegetarian cuisine.   Nevertheless, it took me some convincing to opt for the vegetarian menu by Alvin Leung, but I figured that I’d do myself a favour by eating just a little less foie gras for a change.

Some of the items were similar for both menus.  The opening dish, called Glass Garden, seemed aptly named with withered branches in an electrifying green and brown soil, entirely edible and immensely enjoyable.   The menu had described this dish as “an avant garde Hong Kong interpretation of a garden dish, made from baked morel soil, dehydrated enoki, braised caterpillar fungus and green onion puree.”   As unattractive as it sounded, the green onion puree was heavenly.   It had a silky, buttery texture which seemed to lightly graze the tongue, but we learnt later that no butter was used in this dish and it was extremely healthy.

Everything was close to perfection.   The pan-fried foie gras on my first night was good but not exceptional as it was a little too mushy and lacked a crisp surface, but my second time trying it (off a friend’s plate) showed a vast improvement in the dish.   Likewise, the dessert of kikorangi blue cheese, milk, cream and dried longan granita seemed disproportionately doled out with the piquant taste of the blue cheese overpowering every other flavour, but this was quickly rectified the next night and it finally occurred to me why the good chef would pair a seemingly chinese dessert with blue cheese.  The resultant dish with the ingredients combined was a creamy iced dessert with a mild sharpness in flavour from the cheese.

One other dish that caught my fancy was the Kukomi Intrigue, a dish created from boiled chicken soup, sous vide egg white, foie gras and julienned truffle.  The flavour was like a pure extract of chicken essence, and the texture was a thick, curdled consistency from the egg white, foie gras and truffle.  The vegetarian version of the soup was less attractive in appearance but every mouthful was extremely pleasurable.   The ingredients seemed rather similar.   The egg white was present, as was the julienned truffle, but the vegetarian version was bursting with the flavour of mushrooms.   Fans of mushrooms would also have been thrilled with the vegetarian menu, where an assortment of fungi such as enoki, morels, black truffles and ceps were used in the cooking.

Only two types of beverage were served together with the specially planned menu – water and Hennessy X.O cognac.  The pairing of the food with the cognac was excellently done.  Hennessy X.O could very well be my tipple of choice in the future!  Halfway through the meal, we were given the opportunity to savour the Ultra Limited Edition Hennessy X.O Mathusalem created by master blender and secret keeper, Yann Filloux.  Speeches were aplenty, and Alvin Leung was a delight to listen to.

The event was held for six nights in September at a specially built “dome” in Bukit Kiara Equestrian Club with constantly changing 360 degree visuals on the walls with every new dish.   Tables were adorned and spilling with flowers and crystals, and guests were dressed to the nines in line with the black tie theme.   Service moved like clockwork.  It was absolutely beautiful.

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Table setting

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Hennessy X.O

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Har Mi – A perfectly executed crouton of carabinero, sauteed capellini, roasted cherry tomatoes and deep-fried sage

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Mystique Morel – A distinctive delight made from sauteed morels, braised Korean vermicelli, onion foam, dried morels and ceps

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Bloggers in action hehe – BabeKL, Lyrical Lemongrass and Nigel Skelchy

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Bloggers in action Part II – Alison Victor, Alilfatmonkey and Fatboybakes

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Palate Fantastique – With pan-fried foie gras, metilcellulose and xantana

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Puntalette risotto

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A different table setting

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Beautiful people

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Kukomi Intrigue – An umami dish created from boiled chicken soup, sous vide egg white, foie gras and julienned truffle

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Vegetarian soup created with egg white, mushrooms and truffle

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Bald Eagle with the Mathusalem

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Regional Brand Ambassador Arnaud Mirey with Paprika

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Wagyu Wonders – Sous vide wagyu striploin, cheong fun and black truffle

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Risotto Relish – A dish of sauteed cauliflower, preserved duck egg sauce and sauteed yak cheese

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Managing Director of Riche Monde Malaysia, Frederic Noyere on the right

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Eastern Ascent – kikorangi blue cheese, milk, cream and dried longan granita

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Tiramisu with X.O

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FBB is pleased

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Great job, guys!

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Beautiful

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Me and Alvin Leung and everyone else

Thank you, Adeline, Janis and Wei from Milk PR, and Andrew and Frederic from Riche Monde Malaysia for inviting us and for making our dreams come true.

Restoran Wai Kei, Old Klang Road

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Vinegared Pork Knuckle

My dinners with Kenny Mah and the Devil Wears Prada are always spontaneous and generally take place in Taman Desa or Old Klang Road where they live. The thing about living in Shah Alam is that I get used to driving long distance, and any distance under 35km is a mere walk in the park. The passport jokes are stale although I admit I sometimes indulge in it to tease my lesser neighbours (yes, my friends in Klang). I once decided to have lunch in Klang at my parents’ place, and ended up taking an entire hour to get there from my office in KL. By the time I arrived, the food was cold, and my parents had gone ahead and finished lunch without me. I’ve since resolved never to go to Kajang or Klang on a weekday unless it is a matter of a luscious slab of char siew.

It was a choice between Wai Kei and Sanuki Udon. I was leaning towards Sanuki (because the owner makes me smile *blush*), but when Kenny mentioned Vinegared Pork Knuckles and Ginger Wine Chicken, I allowed my carnal desire for the flesh to be doused by my carnal desire for food. I’m easy that way.

I’ve had a weakness for those two dishes since the day I ate up all my friend’s post-natal confinement period food.  Her confinement lady was not amused and I wasn’t allowed entry the next day.

We ordered a large claypot of ginger wine chicken and a smaller portion of vinegared pork knuckles.  To supplement our diet, we ordered some stir fried yau mak with garlic, a tofu dish which the proprietor said was homemade, and some yong tau foo as an afterthought despite the proprietor’s protests that we had already ordered enough for three.

The ginger wine chicken came with generous portions of julienned ginger, wolfberries and even bits of fried omelette.  Unfortunately, it also came with a generous portion of alcohol.  Unlike the usual sweetness associated with yellow rice wine, this one was harsh on the palate and we left most of it uneaten.  The vinegared pork knuckle was a lot more edible, possessing a lovely sweet and sour taste, its nectarous sauce good enough to drink on its own.  However, the insufficient portion of old ginger in the recipe failed to make it a memorable dish for us.  Our favourite dish that evening was the beautifully fried plate of yau mak (lettuce), a simple yet addictive dish.

The homemade tofu was nice with bits of pork and vegetables in it, but it was not outstanding.  We liked the yong tau foo which the proprietor said was adjusted to suit the tastebuds of his clientele; in the past, it used to contain pork and salted fish in typical Hakka fashion but the recipe has since been adjusted to contain just fish paste.  Simple and wholesome.

Restoran Wai Kei (near Taman Desa exit)
4 1/2 Miles, Old Klang Road, KL.

Tel: 013-391 8269 / 016-227 6210

Closed Mondays.

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Ginger Wine Chicken

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Homemade Tofu

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Stir Fried Yau Mak

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Yong Tau Foo