Old China Cafe, Petaling Street (Part 1 of 2)

My maternal grandmother passed away half my lifetime ago. During my school holidays when I was in primary school, it was the norm for me to travel south from Penang to PJ where my grandma used to live. Grandma Yeoh was a cynical woman who had a fast-forward education on life at a young age when her husband, an architect and a painter, passed away, leaving her to tend to 5 growing children. She’d put on a gruff exterior, perhaps not knowing how to show her affection towards me, but her actions reflected her kindness. I’d faithfully follow her to the market everyday where she’d buy only the freshest ingredients for the day’s meal and chat with the various stall owners, from the vegetable seller to the man chopping up the pork. Sundays were spent in reverence as she attended the Lutheran church in PJ. Usually, after a hard day’s work of cooking and cleaning and sharing the latest gossip with the neighbour, she’d sit down on her rickety old chair in front of her black and white TV to catch the latest offering on RTM. I, on the other hand, would creep into the storeroom to hunt for treasures stored away in musty old boxes. It was in that barely-lit storeroom that I found my first inspiration to dabble in art; my late grandfather had a wealth of books on art that gave me my foundation in a lifelong love affair.Everyday, Grandma Yeoh would dress up in her crisp cotton kebaya top and her batik sarung held up by an intricate silver belt. She cooked, cleaned, shopped and rested in those outfits. Meals were always prepared on the charcoal stove at the back of her house. Food like tau yu bak, babi pongteh and other straits chinese food were commonly served in her household.

Eating nyonya food brings me back to the past and my friends will attest to the fact that I behave a little strangely in nyonya restaurants where in my imagination, I have travelled back in time.

All this reverie because of Old China Cafe. 🙂


Back to the present, Old China Cafe is an old guild hall of the Selangor & Federal Territory Laundry Association. Walking through its wooden doors, I feel a sense of belonging in this dimly lit place, the same chinese music playing in the background. According to its website, “the two large mirrors that face each other are traditional feng shui mirrors that Chinese believe would perpetually reflect the good luck when the first rays of the morning sun light up the interior”.

This is the first of a 2-part series. Today, it’s all about the one-dish meal. This restaurant is located on the fringe of Petaling Street and like its sister, Precious Old China, it seems to appeal more to the expatriate and tourist crowd. As a result, the waiters normally confirm the degree of spiciness one can tolerate in a meal. I recommend going spicy all the way.

Bouncing Barbie was keen on eating rice, so she ordered the nyonya fried rice. Barbie and Pretty Pui both agreed that it was a little bland (perhaps due to the fact that Barbie didn’t want garlic in her meal) despite asking for an extra spicy version of this dish. The rice is fried with mixed vegetables and belacan and is served with a piece of chicken, grated cucumbers and papadum.

Pretty Pui was immediately attracted to the nasi lemak. Unlike normal nasi lemak, the rice in this dish is coloured with bunga telang (blue sweetpea flowers). This dish is served with chicken curry, crunchy fried ikan bilis (anchovies), kangkung (water convolvulus) and slices of cucumber.

I’ve always liked the curry laksa in Old China Cafe. The aroma of lemongrass is prevalent in this curry, rich with santan (coconut milk). This noodle dish has several prawns, taufu pok (fried tofu), sliced fish cakes, shredded cucumber and half an egg.

If you’re dining here, be prepared to spend some time drinking in the ambience and waiting for your food as service can be a little slow. Nevertheless, it is a nice place to spend a lazy afternoon with old friends, dead or alive. 😛

Part 2 will cover several new dishes introduced in Old China Cafe. Stay tuned!

Old China Cafe

11, Jalan Balai Polis,50000 Kuala Lumpur.

Tel: 03-20725915

Sek Yuen Restaurant

Whenever we drive past Sek Yuen, we’d tell ourselves that we should go there some time soon. We generally enjoy old-style dining, and the facade of the restaurant with its washed-out, peeling paint was a good reflection of the interior.


Entering the restaurant, it was like we travelled back through time; there were old kopitiam tables and sturdy wooden chairs that had withstood the test of time, white ceiling fans and dusty fluorescent lights suspended by wires and windows without shutters.


In a country where progress is reflected in our country’s employment and where locals are in the pursuit of more ambitious vocations, it is heartening to see that cheap foreign labour is not employed in this restaurant. The servers in this restaurant are withered, shrivelled uncles and aunties wearing white pagoda T-shirts over white shorts.


A bespectacled, wizened man with fingers nimbly skimming an abacus was presumably the “cashier”.

Chopped wood for the stove is stored at the back to cook the food the traditional way.

The food that you will see below is from an accumulation of two visits. The first time, we went there with no idea what to order. We were impressed with what we had tasted. Our second time was a more educated trip, but unfortunately we were overenthusiastic, and thus we overordered!


I’m a big fan of pork trotters. Unfortunately, Pretty Pui isn’t, so it was a nightmare for her as she thrust her chopsticks into the thick fat in search of lean meat. We tried two types of dishes: stewed pork trotters, and stuffed pork trotters with chestnuts, onions and mushrooms. Both are delicious, but the “small” portion of stuffed pork trotters was still too much for 5 of us.


The pei pa duck with its crispy skin would have been more enjoyable had it not been for the thick layers of fat that left one feeling full after consuming it. At first, I tried spitting out the fat, but that left my jaws tired. After that, I was merely tearing off and eating the skin and leaving behind the fat and the meat that seemed to be fused together.


Our dish of chicken came steamed with black fungus, ginger and kum chum (dried lily buds).



We tried two types of tofu dishes; one was seng kua taufu cooked with mushrooms and ridge gourd (petola), and the other, tofu with mixed vegetables. Both dishes came with a starchy egg sauce that was good enough to drink by itself.


We loved the kah heong chai (literally translated as village vegetables) which consisted of nam yue (red fermented bean paste), black fungus, fried foo chuk, chinese cabbage, transparent glass noodles and kum chum. We ordered this on both visits as it was absolutely addictive.


The fluffy, white rice steamed in little aluminium bowls not only looked adorable, but tasted great too.

Note: The airconditioned restaurant is located nextdoor. Same food, different environment. You decide.

Sek Yuen Restaurant
313-1, Jalan Pudu
55100 Kuala Lumpur
Tel: 03-92229457
Airconditioned restaurant: 315, Jalan Pudu.
Tel: 03-92220903

Woo Lan Restaurant

Some of us in the Makan Club are well acquainted with Woo Lan Restaurant. Now housed in an air-conditioned shoplot at Jalan Scott, Brickfields, it didn’t start out that glamorously.A wooden structure under the overhead bridge next to the Holy Rosary Church. Cars parked haphazardly.

Was that all? Just another old shack to cater to those who lived and worked there? Probably not, judging from the old faithfuls that thronged the place. An interesting point to note about Malaysians (in general, anyway…there are some who have gone to the dark side…hehe) is that they do not care about appearances as long as the food is good. And that’s the success story of Woo Lan.

“Progress” and “development” eventually took place in that lot next to the church. Woo Lan subsequently moved to its current location, barely 50 metres from where it last stood.

My love affair with foo yue yau mak (romaine lettuce stir-fried with fermented beancurd) first started in Woo Lan over ten years ago. Over the next few months, I tormented my friends by constantly ordering the same vegetable. I wasn’t very compromising then! Pretty Pui and Bouncing Barbie are quite relieved that the obsession is over and that they can get on with life.

This evening, as Ecstatic Eeyore and I drove down to Brickfields in search of roti canai for dinner, instead of heading to our usual haunt, we were somehow drawn by a hidden force towards Woo Lan. Our minds were filled with visions of fried mee suah with seaweed and fried pak kor. The force was strong and in our moment of weakness, we yielded to it.

We are but mere fallible humans. Not only did we order the mee suah and pak kor, we also asked for yue sang. For two. The spirit of Chinese New Year was in us, and we wanted to be one with the yue sang.


What a wondrous sight it was. Our first yue sang (raw fish salad) for the year in all its colourful (artificial) glory. Bits of shredded vegetables, pomelo, crackers and raw fish drizzled with plum sauce and sesame seeds. Yue sang is normally consumed during the Chinese New Year period and is presented in the centre of the table whereby everyone, with chopsticks raised, toss the salad, uttering good wishes (good health, good job, lots of money, a girlfriend who looks like Amber Chia).


It must have been a sorry sight to see two very hungry looking people tossing the yue sang and yelling out every imaginable good wish to each other.


Pak kor is a rice cake that is thinly sliced. This dish was prepared in a nice garlicky dark sauce and fried with prawns.


The mee suah in Woo Lan is my current all-time favourite dish. A master of deception, this dish looks plain and unappetising. Mix it with the bits of crunchy seaweed, prawns, chinese cabbage and fried eggs and inhale…The combination of flavours arouse the senses.


Believe it or not, we finished everything. Burp.


Woo Lan
19, Jalan Scott,
Brickfields, 50470 KL.
Tel: 03-2274-8368

Opening hours: 11.30am – 3.00pm & 5.30pm – 10.00pm