Sungai Besi Wantan Mee

chopsticksMusic always soothes the soul, even when one has completely forgotten everything that her music teacher had taught her up till she turned 17, after which her attention was diverted to cars and boys. Despite not being able to tell the difference between a B Minor chord and an F Major chord, I have never ceased to appreciate all types of music, from classical to jazz. So when the Malaysian Philharmonic Orchestra (MPO) gave its inaugural performance in 1998, we were ecstatic. We looked forward to one major event every year; when tickets for the new season were up for sale, we’d queue up with the rest of the die-hard fans to purchase them. Several years back, we’d join the queue as early as 2.00 in the morning with a thermos pot containing hot, steaming coffee, packed sandwiches and a couple of good books to while the time away until they opened the ticket counter at 8.00am. It was a ritual of sorts. We’d see the same faces every year, almost like they were old friends (and perhaps, after all these years, they had become that), so it wasn’t really a chore to line up in the comfort of the airconditioned area that the organisers had cordoned off for us.

We love going for concerts. The excitement of dressing up. The anticipation of watching yet another great performance. The opportunity to unwind after a hard day’s work. My tense muscles relax, the frown on my forehead disappears, and my eyes shut close as I lose myself in a symphony of music.

We have one other ritual after an evening at the MPO. We eat wantan mee with wildboar curry.

charsiewwantan sui kowwildboarcurry

The stall is situated along the Sungai Besi highway leading from KL to Seremban, just after Nichii Fashion City, and right under a 3M signboard. We’d go to this stall in all our finery, sometimes sitting and eating there, and at other times, for take-away. My regular order is a plate of dry noodles with a serving of half lean meat, half fat char siew (barbequed pork). The noodles may not be as springy as what you’d find in Hung Kee, but it’s still very good.

What makes the meal really satisfying is the extra serving of thick, spicy, wild boar curry, poured liberally over the wantan noodles. The meat is cooked till tender, and the flavours of the spices infuse the meat and mask the strong smell of wild boar that one tends to get a waft of if the meat is not cooked properly.

Other items available here include hakka stewed pork, vinegar pork knuckles and sui kow. I’ve tried the hakka stewed pork once, but it failed to impress so I didn’t bother ordering it again.

the kid The stall is open for dinner till really really late, so it is a good place to stop by after a night of partying. Stumbling about in a drunken stupor is not necessary.

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Fish Head Noodles at Red Leaf Restaurant & Cafe, Jln Loke Yew, KL

fish head noodles

When we have cravings for fish head noodles and are not in the mood to queue up for a table at Woo Pin in Taman Desa or hunt for parking at Goon Wah in Kuchai Lama, our next best alternative is Red Leaf Restaurant at Jalan Loke Yew. Perhaps terming it “next best” isn’t very fair. The fish head noodles here can hold its own against the powerhouses mentioned above.

Our usual order comes with huge chunks of deep-fried fish and fish head, a few pieces of firm, delectable fish paste, tomatoes, preserved vegetables and of course, rice vermicelli, in a thick milk-infused broth. The “small” serving is rather large, but all the better to drink you up, grandma.

The restaurant also serves a variety of other popular one-dish meals, such as curry mee, wantan mee, claypot lou shue fun and prawn noodles, all of which are pretty good.

For all the writing I have done on high-end Malaysian and foreign food, this is where my heart is. Simple Malaysian fare that warms me up.

Diversity. That’s what it’s all about.

Red Leaf Restaurant & Cafe
(coming from Jln Maharajalela, it is located just before the Loke Yew roundabout)
Jalan Loke Yew, KL.

Mui Hiong Salt Fish Delicacy, Imbi

Come in, sit down!“, the lady greeted me in English. “You read about us in NST?”, she asked affably.”Errr, no”, I said apologetically.

Never mind, I give you good dishes to eat“, she offered. “We famous for salted fish dishes, you know.

“Errr, yes, I figured that out from your name”, I said.

The friendly lady, whom I later found out was the wife of the proprietor cum chef, George Lai, proceeded to describe the house specialities and later produced a copy of the NST for me to read while I waited for my food.

steamed kurau with salted fish

I had a delightful conversation with the the proprietor, George Lai. According to George, the restaurant specialises in chinese new village food, which is essentially food that came about during the 1950s during the Malayan Emergency. As a result of the setting up of these new villages during the Emergency and their segregation to prevent insurgents from gaining influence in the community, the people had to make do with whatever ingredients that were available at that time. Dried salted fish was a popular ingredient. Even after the Emergency ended, the art of preparing these dishes continued. George remembers being asked by his mother to go out and purchase salted fish from the nearby sundry shop when he was young. He has since carried on the tradition of cooking new village food, and I had the pleasure of sampling some of his specialities.

The ikan kurau (threadfin) steamed with salted fish is one such dish. In dishes such as this, the freshness of the fish is crucial, and George didn’t fail us. The salted fish provided a hint of flavour, but didn’t overpower the dish, leaving the ikan kurau to bask in its watery glory.

steamed minced pork with cuttlefish

Another popular new village dish is the steamed minced pork with cuttlefish. Best eaten hot while the minced pork is still soft, the cuttlefish added a lovely salty, fishy taste to the dish. George cooks mainly Hakka and Cantonese style dishes and is an expert on steamed dishes.

lettuce and cabbage with dried scallops

The stir-fried lettuce and cabbage is a simple dish that tasted wonderful with the generous serving of sliced dried scallops. Of course, in the days of the Emergency, the dish was normally cooked with chopped pieces of salted fish, but the dish has since been improvised to suit the growing needs of the affluent customer.

bittergourd fried with salted egg yolk and prawns

I wanted to break out into song when I tasted the stir-fried bittergourd in a salted egg yolk base. The creamy texture of the sauce went extremely well with the bitter taste of the vegetable creating a myriad variety of flavours in my mouth. The dish was fried with prawns. This was probably the only dish that wasn’t a traditional new village recipe.

George Lai has been in the restaurant business for about 13 years, starting in Pandan Jaya, then moving to Taman Maluri and now in Imbi. The restaurant has been in Imbi for approximately 2 years. Don’t be misled by the very plain signboard and bare appearance. A gem (albeit a little smelly!) awaits to be discovered inside.

Mui Hiong Salt fish Delicacy
4, Jalan Medan Imbi, Off Jalan Imbi
55100 KL
012-2993331

Opening hours: 12.00 noon – 3.00pm, 6.00pm – 10.00pm (closed Monday and Tuesday of the last week of the month)