Mandarin Grill and MO Bar at Mandarin Oriental, Kuala Lumpur

MO Bar - window seat
MO Bar (photo courtesy of Mandarin Oriental Kuala Lumpur)

When it comes to fine dining at Mandarin Oriental, our instinctive reaction is to exclaim that the food is overpriced, even before trying it.  This leads to the next question, that is, whether or not the quality and experience justifies the high prices.  The proliferation of loyalty/membership cards at hotels have enabled us to enjoy food at hotels at more modest prices, but this then begs the question, would we pay full price for the meal if we did not have the card?  It is precisely this issue which will be a struggle for Pacifica and Mandarin Grill (and for that matter, any other restaurant based in a hotel of a similar standard) which hopes to be a dining destination not only for the upper crust but also for the pervasive middle class in Kuala Lumpur.

With such preconceived notions of prices, Mandarin Grill‘s boast and drawing power will have to be the quality and exclusivity of the food.  Granted that, due to certain restrictions on halal meat in Malaysia, the best may still not be able to rival that of our neighbours, Mandarin Grill still has an impressive selection of beef, from Master Kobe Grade 10 to USDA Prime 80% Angus and 1824 Australia in various cuts.  Much has been said on the blogs about the 1824 beef, a prime aged beef with robust flavour, and indeed, it was very good and tender in a moderately fatty piece of ribeye, which I had medium rare.  The 1824 1kg T-bone, which our host Christophe Mousset ordered, came to the table whole, and was subsequently carved in elaborate fashion and served.  Incidentally, and here’s where I inject some useful trivia, the blood that you see in your rare or medium rare steak isn’t really blood but myoglobin, a type of protein.  This eventually oxidises when it is cooked, resulting in a grey shade.  Wiki it for more information.

Two additional notable things that set Mandarin Grill apart from its competitors are, interestingly enough, the cutlery and oven.  The oven is a Spanish oven that allows the meat to be cooked evenly and retains the moisture, and the knives are exclusive Le Thiers knives from France, presented to the dinner guest in a wooden box, wherein the guest selects the knife of his choice and proceeds to use it.  Far from a novelty, the knife cuts through meat like butter and is a pleasure to use.

If you are a fan of pumpkin soup, you will be bowled over by the pumpkin veloute which has a texture akin to a dense foam rather than a traditional soup, a recipe which Chef de Cuisine, Cedric Darthial, is very proud of.  The lobster bisque with armagnac is robust in flavour, making each mouthful extremely gratifying.  The foie gras au torchon, which is probably the best way to eat foie gras as it allows the least amount of fat loss in the cooking/poaching process, was excellent and had a lovely buttery texture.  The black angus steak tartare is only for those who can stomach raw meat with egg.  To me, it was not only a work of art, but also very flavourful and paired wonderfully with the accompanying sourdough bread. Aside from grill items, there is also a selection of seafood on the menu including whole dover sole meuniere.  If you have room for desserts, try the hazelnut creme brulee with blueberry compote which has a perfectly crisp surface and lovely custardy centre, and which is probably one of the best I’ve had in KL.

For after dinner drinks, the MO Bar is situated alongside the Mandarin Grill and offers an impressive array of single malt whiskies, from the Lowlands, Highlands, Speyside, Islay and Campbeltown & Scottish Isles.  These include Quinta Ruban, Glenmorangie and Highland Park from the Highlands, Auchentoshan from the Lowlands, Laphroaig, Ardberg and Quarter Cask from Islay, Aberfeldy, Glenfiddich and Macallan from Speyside and Springbank from Campbeltown.  All these are served by the glass, and thus enables one to sample a wider variety at any one time.  The atmosphere at the MO Bar is cozy and relaxed, with an interior of oak and dark wood.

Mandarin Grill, on the other hand, has a contemporary feel about it and has a relatively more casual approach to it as opposed to Pacifica, which is more formal.  The decor is charming, with LED lights suspended from the ceiling to resemble modern-day chandeliers and paper animal sculptures scattered all over.  I expected more of the service, where orders got mixed up along the way, and hopefully things have improved since my visit several weeks back.  For a three course meal (without wine), prices approximate RM300 per person (before tax, on average).

Thank you to our hosts, Christophe Mousset (Executive Asst Manager, Food & Beverage, MO) and Nicole Andres (Public Relations, MO), for inviting us to Mandarin Grill and MO Bar, and gracing us with your delightful company.  It was a lovely, fun-filled evening, and we look forward to meeting both of you again!

Mandarin Grill
Mandarin Oriental Kuala Lumpur
Tel: 03 – 2179 8960

Assortment of bread
Breads

Amuse bouche - Duck in puff pastry
Amuse bouche – Duck in puff pastry

Mandarin Grill MO KL
Foie Gras Au Torchon

Black Angus Steak Tartare
Black Angus Steak Tartare

Pumpkin Veloute
Pumpkin Veloute

Lobster Bisque with Armagnac
Lobster Bisque with Armagnac

Grill
1824 Grain fed 120 days 1kg T-bone

Grill
Grill

Mandarin Grill
Le Thiers knives

Manjari Chocolate Ganache with Coffee Anglaise and Chocolate Sorbet
Manjari Chocolate Ganache with Coffee Anglaise and Chocolate Sorbet

Hazelnut Creme Brulee with Blueberry Compote
Hazelnut Creme Brulee with Blueberry Compote

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Ice cream

MO Bar
MO Bar

Mandarin Grill - night shot
Mandarin Grill (photo courtesy of Mandarin Oriental Kuala Lumpur)

Max@iHaus, Bukit Bintang

1.

Talk to the hand

My heart soared like an eagle as I saw him hobble toward the finishing line.

Haruki Murakami, in his book What I Talk About When I Talk About Running, wrote, “People sometimes sneer at those who run every day, claiming they’ll go to any length to live longer.  But don’t think that’s the reason most people run.  Most runners run not because they want to live longer, but because they want to live life to the fullest.  If you’re going to while away the years, it’s far better to live them with clear goals and being fully alive than in a fog, and I believe running helps you to do that.  Exerting yourself to the fullest within your individual limits: that’s the essence of running, and a metaphor for life — and for me, for writing as whole.  I believe many runners would agree.” In light of the motivation that spurs Murakami to do the best that he can, I was inspired to be that motivational force to Bald Eagle as he approached the finishing line at the Standard Chartered KL Marathon, held a couple of days ago.

“Go, Bald Eagle, go!”, I cheered, urging him to pick up his speed and run towards the marker.  Deep down, my heart was bursting with pride, and images of me running alongside the man I loved flashed before my eyes as I prepared to sprint with him.  I pictured the photographers picking up on this poignant moment of a wife running beside her limping husband, the stories that they would write later, and my heart swelled.

Perhaps I’d be offered a book deal.

Ow

“Not. Now.” he snapped, shooing me away.

What?  Bald Eagle wants to deny me MY victory at the finish line?

Murakami didn’t warn me about this.  Pbbthhh.

Mr Grumpypuss hobbled away.  Alone.

Hobble.

Hobble.

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Hobble.

Hobble.

No poignant moment.

*poof* (sound of vanishing book deal.)

2.

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It was Bald Eagle’s first attempt at the marathon, and despite the less than dramatic ending, he completed 42 kilometres within a respectable 5:37 hrs.  This included suffering from cramps at the 30th kilometre, and the lack of water and medication (the organisers had run out of both – what I call bad and irresponsible management) caused the poor chap to hobble the remaining 12 kilometres to the finish line in pain.  It took determination and courage to endure the excruciating pain, and for that, I take my hat off to him.  I’ll just have to look for another book deal, hor.

3.

A day later, it was Bald Eagle’s birthday.

Now, the thing about birthdays (with us, that is) is that we’re always trying to outdo the previous year’s celebration.  That wasn’t so difficult for me considering that I had not done anything for him last year thanks to the fact that he was in Austria on his birthday while I was lonely and alone in KL with nary a friend beside me.  Unfortunately, there was no chance of him disappearing again this year, so I racked my brain to come up with something special.

An imaginary lightbulb flashed above my head as I was having lunch at Max’s new restaurant one Friday.  Max had been there for so many of our celebrations, serving plate after plate of brilliant cuisine, that it made sense to celebrate Bald Eagle’s birthday here.  Sometimes, as a food blogger, it is easy enough to be carried away with the number of new choices available, but it is also sensible to revisit tried and tested favourites.  I didn’t want to screw up, and I knew Max would deliver.

So the stage was set for a perfect evening at Max’s.

4.

max1

Max recently moved from Max! Kitchen & Wines at Tengkat Tong Shin to Max@iHaus located in the maze of one-way traffic parallel to Jalan Imbi.  Plus points – ample carpark (yay!), large restaurant with eclectic furniture (yay!) and no claustrophobic feeling (yay!).  Minus point – hard-to-find location for first-timers.

Housed in a bungalow cum furniture showroom, the restaurant resembles a house with sofas, dining tables and a kitchen.  We devirginised every chair in the restaurant in our attempt to figure out which was the best seat in the house.  I suppose, ultimately, it all depends on the size of one’s rump and, in Fatboybakes’ case, the level of one’s military upbringing, i.e. posture.

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Bell Pepper Salsa – Crab Meat with Lemon Oil and Gazpacho and Seared Tuna

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Soft Poached Farm Egg on Truffled Soubise and Mushroom Potpourri

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Seared Sea Scallop in a Grilled Provencale Vegetables – Cherry Tomato Broth with Olives and Lobster Oil

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Crisp Quail Breast, glazed with Chardonnay on Piquillo Pepper – Borlotti Beans Ragout

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Lamb Roulade with Cutlet with Cabernet – Rosemary Jus

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Lamb Roulade with Cutlet with Cabernet – Rosemary Jus

max
Vanilla Cream Brulee with Late Harvest Gewurstraminer Poached Pear and Warm Chocolate Brownies with Blood Orange Mascarpone Cream

Max’s food has remained essentially the same, primarily because Max Chin himself helms the kitchen to ensure consistency in quality.  While in the past, we used to be able to observe him cooking, now the kitchen is tucked away behind closed doors in the far recesses of the house.  Nevertheless, Max still attempts to make the occasional appearance to satisfy the curious guest.

The clever use of ingredients to combine the various tastes is ever present in Max’s cuisine.   The shredded crab meat gazpacho is a thick broth that is full of ingredients; less of a soup, and the tuna is seared ever so slightly that it still retains a bounce to the flesh.   White anchovies complete the first dish, and the combination of the saltiness of the anchovies with the duller taste of the tuna is spot on.   Bald Eagle’s favourite dish is the poached egg (with a nice runny yolk) paired with a lovely truffle soubise (onion based sauce?), although I reckon it could do with just a little bit more truffle.   The scallops, amazingly sweet and tasty, were seared first, then cooked perfectly in a very light vegetable broth.  I loved the quail breast which was crisp and still moist, so unlike chicken breasts which can be stringy in texture.   What I didn’t appreciate as much was the bed of borlotti beans that somehow felt like a bad marriage.  The lamb roulade and lamb cutlet were gorgeous and tender and the garlic confit literally melted into the meat to create some beautiful flavour.  Desserts were nice but not exceptional; in my opinion, Max’s forte lies in his starters and mains.

Bald Eagle's birthday

It is always wonderful to celebrate a birthday with friends.  Despite the short notice, they all turned up for drinks at Max’s.  Thank you!  And thank you, Fatboybakes, for the scrumptious Red Velvet aka Tim’s Velvet cake.

‘Thus the seasons come and go, and the years pass by.  I’ll age one more year, and probably finish another novel.  One by one, I will face the tasks before me and complete them as best I can.  Focusing on each stride forward, but at the same time taking a long-range view, scanning the horizon as far ahead as I can.  I am, after all, a long-distance runner’

‘The end of the race is just a temporary marker without much significance.  It’s the same with our lives.  Just because there is an end does not mean existence has meaning.’

-Haruki Murakami in What I Talk About When I Talk About Running-

Max@iHaus
Lot No. 32, Jalan Jati
Off Jalan Bukit Bintang
Kuala Lumpur
Tel: 03 – 2142 9720

Open from Monday till Sunday from 12pm till 2.30pm, and 6.30 till 10pm or till late.

View Larger Map

NOTE:
1. Opening sentence on this blog was given by Fatboybakes as a challenge to me. I personally think that it’s a blardy corny line, but a challenge is a challenge, so I used it. Check out Fatboybakes’ blog for my suggested opening line to him.  You can call me the queen of cheese.

2. Thanks to Ciki who gave Bald Eagle What I Talk About When I Talk About Running by Haruki Murakami.  Bald Eagle is now a big fan (of you and of the book).

Jean-Georges Signature Breakfast at Latest Recipe, Le Meridien Kuala Lumpur

LM Eye Opener Shots
LM Eye Opener shots – this is NOT Nescafe

I like Maya Karin.  Every morning, while I drive to work and listen to my favourite radio station, Hitz.FM, she reminds me that I’m doing the right thing by drinking Nescafe which is full of natural antioxidants, an ingredient which will apparently keep me healthy and youthful.  And here I was thinking that my baby face was due to all that puppy fat I never shed.  NO WONDER my husband dutifully wakes up EVERY MORNING to make me my daily cuppa.  EVERY DAY.  He knows the Secret (cue eerie music).  And now, thanks to Maya Karin (and me), you do too.  At only RM23.90 for a bottle of Nescafe Gold (good for a gazillion cups (don’t quote me)) and way cheaper than SKII.

This is NOT an advertorial.

Also, thanks to Mr Jean-Georges Vongerichten, we can now enjoy Michelin quality food in Kuala Lumpur, the city frequently referred to in movies when they’re looking for a place in the far east where unrest takes place everyday and often said in the same breath as Afghanistan and Congo.  Sure, while the bombs are going off, I’m enjoying my daily cup of Nescafe and a Jean-Georges Signature Breakfast.  *kaboom* Damn, did I just spill my Nescafe on my Hermes scarf?

This is still NOT an advertorial.

Jean-Georges Vongerichten is apparently quite an amazing chef.  He owns a string of restaurants including the 3-Michelin-starred Jean Georges restaurant in New York.  Vongerichten recently created a selection of “signature” breakfasts specially for Le Meridien properties worldwide for people who don’t want the same boring fare at hotels.

What delights me is Vongerichten‘s creative use of ingredients for the breakfast dishes.  Take the Croque-Madame (RM24), for example.   Soft cheese is sandwiched between two slices of toast, and when cut open, runny fried egg oozes out from the toast, much like when you squeeze a pimple and the pus spurts out.  Well, maybe that imagery doesn’t work.   The toast is topped with a citrus-chilli hollandaise sauce which adds a lovely zing to the dish.

The Buckwheat Crepe (RM20) gives an interesting twist to the typical crepes we find here.   The buckwheat crepe is filled with gruyere cheese and mashed spinach (which looks similar to the mashed-beyond-recognition spinach vegetarian indian dish that my mum expertly prepares every Friday).  Only for fans of spinach.

I was attracted to the Espresso Steamed Eggs (RM18) due to its interesting description.   “Fresh eggs are steamed with the high-pressure espresso steamer to create a light and fluffy ‘a la minute soufflé’.  Wouldn’t you be curious too?  If you’re expecting a cloudlike fluffy appearance characteristic of soufflés, be prepared to be surprised.   This is perfectly cooked scrambled eggs at best.   Absolutely delicious, but I regretted not ordering the Smoked Salmon and Steamed Silken Tofu which, on hindsight, might have been a more adventurous choice.

Goat Cheese Gruyere Custard (RM32) is described as “a textural deconstruction of a Provençal quiche”.   I like pretty words.  Deconstruction.  Provençal.  Textural.   It’s enough to give me an orgasmic shudder.  I shuddered alright.   My untrained palate couldn’t take the extreme sharp, pungent flavours of the goat cheese custard (had I lost my mind?!?!) with black olive puree topped with goat cheese foam (*screaming all the way to Sungai Pelek*).   Granted, the texture was gorgeous and the assembly pretty, but if you’re used to milder cheeses, don’t be a smartypants and try to appear sophisticated.   This brings back memories of my flight to London where I had to sit next to a man who smelt like cheese.   I.  Am.  Not.  Minnie.  Mouse.

Other than the Signature Dishes, Mr Vongerichten also created a series of LM Eye Openers, basically blended fruit juices with a twist.   Shots (like in the first picture above) are complimentary, while full-sized drinks are priced at RM12.   Some of the choices include Cherry Lemon Pepper, Raspberry Pineapple Clove and Strawberry Banana Lime. Our favourite?  Definitely the Mango Chilli Lime.  Enough to give you a wakeup call that will see you till 2010.

Overall, this is a menu that is definitely created for the finer palate.  My bill came up to RM60 (after 50% discount) thanks to our Starwood Card which just expired end May, but we definitely over-ordered.  A perfect serving would be 3 dishes – one each, and one to share.

Check out FriedChillies’ take on the Signature Breakfast too.

Latest Recipe at Le Meridien Kuala Lumpur (website HERE)
2 Jalan Stesen Sentral
Kuala Lumpur Sentral.

For reservations, call: 03-2263 7888.  Available daily from 6.00am to 10.30am.

croissants
Complimentary croissants for keeping us waiting

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Croque Madame
Croque Madame

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Croque Madame
Croque madame

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Buckwheat crepe
Buckwheat crepe

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Espresso Steamed Eggs
Espresso Steamed Eggs (full sized mango chilli lime in the background)

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Goat Cheese Gruyere Custard
Goat Cheese Gruyere Custard

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Goat Cheese Gruyere Custard
Goat Cheese Gruyere Custard

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This is DEFINITELY not an advertorial.