Cagayan at Centrepoint, Bandar Utama

1.

Boracay
Boracay Island, Philippines

When we got married, my husband was still working in the Philippines on a two-year overseas stint.  After the honeymoon, we both went our separate ways – I returned to KL, and he went back to Manila.  Being newly married, a two week separation meant long, extended daily phonecalls of Imissyous and wet pillowcases.  But then, the sun came out again and everything was well as I was greeted by the old familiar smile at the chaotic Manila airport.  All my travels never prepared me for the diversity of flavours and sights and sounds that was his adopted home.  From the crystal clear waters of Boracay to the slums in Manila, I absorbed everything, and despite having very few photographs (in the days before digital cameras), I still remember the mother and her children sleeping on the pavement outside the walls of the closely guarded gated communities, the dazzling blinking Rudolph and Santa Claus and baby Jesus on lawns and rooftops of spanish-influenced abodes,  the man selling odds and ends at the traffic light, the playing of the national anthem before the screening of a movie, the counterflow of traffic (both legal and illegal) on busy roads, the smiling beautiful people of the Philippines.

2.

It’s a pity that there aren’t more Filipino restaurants in KL. Cagayan is a tiny cafe with tables, benches and stools, hardly the place to take your ailing grandmother to. The menu at Cagayan is a strange combination of Filipino and Japanese, but they seem to be segregated into separate sections, so thankfully, there is not much chance of anything fusion happening here.

I remember being excited about sisig in the Philippines.  What started out as a vinaigrette fruit salad for expectant mothers eventually evolved into a dish of pig’s ears and tail in vinegar, and then its popularity extended to the hairier sex who ate it as a snack while ingesting their favourite intoxicating potions.  Nowadays, sisig can be any kind of meat served on a sizzling plate.  When I first tried it in Manila, the husband, in his usual precise but crude fashion described it as smashed pork head.  Depending on one’s upbringing and dietary consumption, that can sound either exciting or disgusting. The sisig in Cagayan is not the entire head but just the ears cooked on a sizzling hot plate and served with a raw egg which gets cooked when one stirs it in.  The pork ears had a nice gelatinous bite to it with little burnt bits which worked well with the creamier texture of the spicy egg-y sauce.  It tasted very much like the sisig I had in Manila, and judging from the satisfied look of the others at the table, it was a winner.

The pork ribs were excellent, well grilled and had tender pieces of meat that were easily ripped off the bones.  Several choices of sauces were available, and upon the advice of the waiter, we chose the classic sauce.  There are also spicier sauces for those with a more adventurous palate.  The crispy kangkung was quite plain.  It was prepared tempura style in a flour batter that lacked much taste, but eaten with the accompanying dipping sauce it was a little better. I did like the crunchy texture, though, which was its redeeming factor.  The enoki mushrooms wrapped in bacon was, at its best, just a little above average, but I must say that the bacon was cooked to a nice crisp, just the way I like it.  Desserts?  Despite the tempting description of bananas on ice with gula melaka (palm sugar) and evaporated milk, the combo didn’t work. Perhaps it was due to the unusual texture of the bananas, or the taste of the other ingredients, but we weren’t able to finish it.

Overall, the experience was good, and it will be a restaurant which I shall visit when that feeling of nostalgia hits me again.

Cagayan
Ground floor, Centrepoint,
Bandar Utama.

Open daily, 11.30am to 10.00pm.

sisig
Pork sisig

Pork ribs
Pork ribs

tempura kangkung
Deep fried kangkung

bacon and enoki mushrooms
Enoki mushrooms wrapped in bacon

bananas on ice with gula melaka and evaporated milk
Bananas on ice with gula melaka and evaporated milk

Subang Teow Chew Claypot Bak Kut Teh

chinese tea cups

They serve chinese tea just like in the bak kut teh (BKT) shops in Klang. An assortment of tea sachets is presented, badly colour coded with writings in a language I can barely read let alone understand.  Pick a card, any card.  Thankfully, there are some familiar romanised words and I reach for my usual favourite.  There are kettles of boiling water on the side, placed on gas stoves for us to fill and refill our teapots.  The location of a longkang beside the tables is ideal as one can pour any used water directly into the drain.   It is a thoroughly efficient and practical system.  Drinking chinese tea is, of course, important when consuming BKT as the chinese believe that it can help wash away the oil and ease digestion.

But we’re not here to talk about tea.  Neither are we here to talk about the dusty road (before the straight and glossy Guthrie Corridor Expressway came about) which heavy vehicles ply on their daily trade.  This is the story of one bak kut teh place, just 3 minutes away from Bukit Jelutong, a little obscure and quite easily overlooked if one caught some dust in the eye from a passing lorry (in an attempt to save fuel by turning off the airconditioning).  Finding it is easy if one looked for the right signs.  No, not the well camouflaged signboards along the way.  If you’re ‘lucky’ enough to see them, you would be led straight to the new highway and in a blink of an eye, you would find yourself in Rawang where you’d be wondering why you didn’t wind down those damned windows to save fuel.  Take the old road instead and after passing a couple of traffic lights, you will see an Esso petrol station on the left.  You will find Subang Teow chew Claypot Bak Kut Teh directly opposite the petrol station.  As I said, 3 minutes from Bukit Jelutong.

BKT

The claypot BKT here is uncomplicated.  There are two types of items in it – pork meat (and the requisite amount of fats) and foo chuk (bean curd sheets).  Garnishings don’t count, of course.  The meat is tender and flaky, indicating a long period of preparation, and the soup is light and slightly peppery and a little salty in flavour, unlike the hokkien version which has a stronger herbal taste.  It all boils down to personal preference.  Me?  It depends whether it’s Monday, Tuesday, Wednesday, Thursday, Friday, Saturday or Sunday.  After all, why should one be so rigid?

foo chuk

In his blog, KY highly recommended the foo chuk.  He was right.  The foo chuk still retained its crunch and was not soggy despite the soaking in the herbal BKT broth.

The bill for 2 came up to RM29 (together with tea).  Not bad for a weekend breakfast, a reminder of my days in Klang and the numerous weekend breakfasts with my parents and my brothers and our regular guests – uncles and aunties who knew how to start the weekend with a delicious traditional breakfast.

Other writeups can be found here: Masak-masakJulie the Biscuit and Small Kuching.

Subang Teow Chew Claypot Bak Ku Teh
Lot 653 & 655, Jalan Subang, Cherakah Subang
40150 Shah Alam.

Tel: 019-261 5303, 012-335 9219

Open Tuesdays to Sundays, breakfast and lunch only.

Restoran Hatinie, Shah Alam

nasi kerabu
Nasi kerabu

Only three things can make me get out of bed at 6 o’clock on a Saturday morning.  The first is an activity that only 7 of my friends know of (an annual ritual that we have been doing for almost 10 years of our lives…i.e. since we were errrr….14), the second is the lure of a good breakfast, and the third is the lurer…preferably a Hot Sweaty Stud.  Bald Eagle had no say, of course.  Kinda.  Sorta.

“What?!” he exclaimed.

“Breakfast at 7am,” I said.

“I’m okay, but I dunno about you,” he gave a wicked look. “You know how you are in the mornings.” He was right. I am definitely not a morning person. I am grumpy and foul-mouthed and hardly the model wife.

“It’s Kelantanese food, so I’ll make an exception.  And Riz will be there…it’ll be fun!”

And that was how I ended up crawling out of bed at 6.30 am screaming “I’m late, I’m late!” and after scrubbing my skin off in a hot shower, we ended up speeding over to Riz’s place just 2 minutes away from our home.  On time.

nasi dagang
Nasi dagang

At Hatinie, one can get typical Kelantanese and malay goodies for breakfast.  At 7am, the nasi dagang and nasi kerabu were freshly prepared and presented in food warmers.  The various essential elements of the two dishes were available, from rich ikan tongkol curry to ulam (raw vegetables) and kerisik (grated coconut).  The rice was steaming hot and fluffy…. literally a sight for sore eyes.  Out of the corner of my eye, I spied laksam being prepared at another serving table, all very tempting fare.

Roti telur
Roti telur

At another table, brightly coloured malay kuih and various buburs including pengat pisang were available.  And outside, one of the chefs had just started the fire and was making fresh roti canai.  It was more fun than rummaging through my parents’ treasure chest of love letters and other stuff that parents keep away from their kids.

kuih
Kuih keria and tepung pelita

The food was amazingly good.  If you’re curious about their lunch menu, check out this blog.

Restoran Hatinie
No. 18 & 20, Jalan Selendang 10/10
40000 Shah Alam.

Tel: 017-256 2825 (Tinie)

Open 7.30am to 11pm.