Lunch at Cilantro, Micasa All Suite Hotel, KL

Posted on July 23, 2010 by Lyrical Lemongrass

I was reading Aly’s blog about her ever changing tastebuds, and that got me thinking of my own quirkiness when it comes to food. I’m glad that I’ve never been pressured to conform. I always have packets of instant noodles stashed away in my kitchen for days when I crave simplicity, and like I confessed to Aly on her blog, when I am at the cinema, I love eating Twisties BBQ flavour mixed with a fistful of Bald Eagle’s caramel popcorn (when he isn’t looking). Ah the joys of junkfood! I’m far from a morning person and spend just forty minutes getting ready for work before I zoom off in my car. As a result, breakfast is always eaten in the car. I know that there are more practical ways of doing this (like making my own healthy sandwiches), but I have made it a habit to stop by at the neighbourhood store to grab a cold can of Nescafe and a Gardenia bun, both of which I enjoy on the 35 minute journey to work while listening to Hitz fm. There are two little ladies who sweep the road outside the neighbourhood store. These ladies are drawn to my car the way Fatboybakes is drawn to whisky. The second I park my car, I find their brooms near my tyres and under the carriage, sweep-sweep-sweeping the dry leaves away like busy little ants. They are always oblivious to the droning of my engine, concentrating on the task at hand, almost like they have been indoctrinated with the road-sweeping idealogy. Mother Nature’s little helpers. *smile*

As much as I enjoy the simple things in life, I also enjoy the little luxuries that I manage to slip into my daily work life. Like long Friday lunches. When Cilantro announced that the restaurant was open for lunch on Fridays, Chanting Chewbacca and I could talk of nothing else. The lunch menu changes weekly with a four or five course menu at RM150 nett per person (inclusive of a glass of Kir Royale). Best of all, if you’re in the mood for a long leisurely lunch, bring your own bottle(s) of wine because no corkage is charged. The meal is substantial, so wear loose clothes. For us, dinners at Cilantro are reserved for special occasions as it can cost more than RM300 per head; lunches are just as satisfying with no deterioration in the quality of ingredients. The foie gras is still seared to perfection in true Takashi Kimura style and the food continues to excite.

It’s Friday. I have an hour to decide if I want to go to Cilantro. Today’s menu is:
Hokkaido Sea Urchin with Artichoke Veloute
Kumamoto Oyster with Ginger Vinaigrette
Open Ravioli of Porcini with Egg Mollet and Shaved Summer Truffle
Pan Fried Turbot Fillet with Baby Squid and Capsicum
Alternatively
Two Way Preparations of Wagyu Beef
Kyoho Grape with Vanilla Ice Cream and Granite
Coffee or Tea

Decisions. Decisions.

Cilantro (website HERE)
MiCasa All Suite Hotel
368B, Jalan Tun Razak
50400 Kuala Lumpur.

Tel: 03-2179 8082

Poached Lobster a la Minute with Kyuri and Avruga

Pappardelle Pasta with Crispy Duck and Foie Gras

Slow Roasted Grain Fed Lamb with Dauphinoise Potato and Summer Truffle

Warm Apple Pie with Vanilla Ice Cream

il Lido Italian Dining + Lounge Bar, KL

Posted on June 4, 2010 by Lyrical Lemongrass

It’s easy enough to get caught up in the excitement after reading EatDrinkKL‘s glowing review of il Lido. It didn’t take much to convince Bald Eagle to go there with me. “You buying?” he asked, his eyes twinkling with mischief, knowing that I would agree because I wanted to go so badly. “Fine,” I said. “Oh, sweetheart, can you also pick me up from the office on the way to the restaurant?” the blackmailer pressed. “I don’t feel like driving in the jam.”

I should have let him starve that night when I found him sprawled on my timber floor.

**************

The amuse bouche was a slice of bluefin tuna, cured and served with balsamic vinegar, its texture slightly chewy, and its flavour subtle, probably from a young bluefin. Good start. As we looked around, a couple of tables were occupied, and the atmosphere was jovial. Service was stellar. As the wait staff hovered around with watchful eyes, I thought to myself that digging the nose wouldn’t be a wise move. I bustled with my GF1 instead, feeling thankful that I had brought a tiny camera instead of the bulky DSLR. I glanced up, and immediately someone came to my side. “I’d like some sparkling water, please,” I said. It came in an instant. I fluttered my eyelash, and someone appeared before me again. I felt like Aladdin. Service was that good. Not only were the staff helpful, they were friendly, courteous and knowledgeable too. Please God, make this last.

Our starter, a pan fried goose liver with saba wine must and sweet potato galette, came with two pieces of liver, fried such that the centres were still soft and melting, although it didn’t possess the requisite crisp surface that I liked. This did not deter from my enjoyment of the dish; the saba wine must tasted very much like vino cotto (I reckon it is probably similar) and it provided a fruity sweetness, complemented by the delicious sweet potato galette. The risotto with gorgonzola cheese was a simple, wholesome dish, bare and unadorned. Barring the intense flavour of the exquisite blue cheese (which you could either love or hate), the rice was soft on the outside but possessed a bite or a crunch, what one would call a perfectly cooked risotto. The shredded radicchio, such a simple vegetable, balanced the flavours of the dish.

Since the restaurant was only in its first week of operation, there appeared to be teething problems, one of which was the speed at which the dishes came out. It wasn’t much of an issue for us as we were happily caught up in our conversation to notice time pass by, but hey, we’re easy to please. The idle time allowed us to observe our surroundings; nice sleek padded seats which looked like Mademoiselle chairs by Kartell/Starck and the most gorgeous and recognisable Skygarden Lights by Marcel Wanders/Flos. One of the private rooms was decked with Louis Ghost chairs by Kartell/Starck. The walls were a mixture of textures, all dark, that allowed the focus to be on the food.

The pappardelle with goose liver, duck confit and shaved truffle was decadent. Cooked al dente, it was obvious that the pasta was made fresh. The piece de resistance was definitely the Sardinian roasted suckling pig. Three square pieces formed the meal, but it was a labour intensive process, starting with a 4-hour confit, followed by chilling, pressing and grilling. The result was the most tender pieces of pork with a thin layer of fat separating the crisp skin and the flesh, all meltingly delicious. The roast was served with sweet tart cranberries that cut through the richness of the dish. By this time, we were stuffed, and shared the creme brulee sampler, and while the servings were small, each mouthful packed a punch.

Helming the kitchen is Chef Samuele Alvisi who hails from Milan and has substantial experience in the F&B industry. Beppe de Vito, the handsome man behind il Lido in Singapore, is also currently around to ensure that there are minimal teething problems. For now, the rooftop lounge is not open yet, but once it is ready, I reckon that it will be an amazing place to chill out, what with the view of the Twin Towers in the distance.

Oh, my husband ended up kindly paying for the meal, so all was well that evening.

il Lido
Lot 183 Jalan Mayang (located directly opposite the Australian Embassy)
Off Jalan Yap Kwan Seng
50450 Kuala Lumpur.

Tel: 03-2161 2291

Fegato d’Oca con Galletta di Patate Dolci e Salsa alla Saba
Pan Fried Goose Liver with Saba Wine Must and Sweet Potato Galette

Risotto al Gorgonzola e Radicchio con Salsa alle Nocciole
Gorgonzola Cheese and Radicchio Risotto with Hazelnut Sauce

Pappardelle all’Anitra e Fegato d’Oca
Pappardelle with Goose Liver, Duck Confit and Truffle Sauce

Maialino da Latte con Legumi Arrostiti e Salsa alle Prugne
Sardinian Roasted Suckling Pig with Plum Sauce

Combinazine di Creme Catalane
Creme Brule Sampler with Vanilla, Coffee, Pistachio and Strawberry

Simple and classic decor

Mandarin Grill and MO Bar at Mandarin Oriental, Kuala Lumpur

Posted on April 28, 2010 by Lyrical Lemongrass

MO Bar (photo courtesy of Mandarin Oriental Kuala Lumpur)

When it comes to fine dining at Mandarin Oriental, our instinctive reaction is to exclaim that the food is overpriced, even before trying it. This leads to the next question, that is, whether or not the quality and experience justifies the high prices. The proliferation of loyalty/membership cards at hotels have enabled us to enjoy food at hotels at more modest prices, but this then begs the question, would we pay full price for the meal if we did not have the card? It is precisely this issue which will be a struggle for Pacifica and Mandarin Grill (and for that matter, any other restaurant based in a hotel of a similar standard) which hopes to be a dining destination not only for the upper crust but also for the pervasive middle class in Kuala Lumpur.

With such preconceived notions of prices, Mandarin Grill‘s boast and drawing power will have to be the quality and exclusivity of the food. Granted that, due to certain restrictions on halal meat in Malaysia, the best may still not be able to rival that of our neighbours, Mandarin Grill still has an impressive selection of beef, from Master Kobe Grade 10 to USDA Prime 80% Angus and 1824 Australia in various cuts. Much has been said on the blogs about the 1824 beef, a prime aged beef with robust flavour, and indeed, it was very good and tender in a moderately fatty piece of ribeye, which I had medium rare. The 1824 1kg T-bone, which our host Christophe Mousset ordered, came to the table whole, and was subsequently carved in elaborate fashion and served. Incidentally, and here’s where I inject some useful trivia, the blood that you see in your rare or medium rare steak isn’t really blood but myoglobin, a type of protein. This eventually oxidises when it is cooked, resulting in a grey shade. Wiki it for more information.

Two additional notable things that set Mandarin Grill apart from its competitors are, interestingly enough, the cutlery and oven. The oven is a Spanish oven that allows the meat to be cooked evenly and retains the moisture, and the knives are exclusive Le Thiers knives from France, presented to the dinner guest in a wooden box, wherein the guest selects the knife of his choice and proceeds to use it. Far from a novelty, the knife cuts through meat like butter and is a pleasure to use.

If you are a fan of pumpkin soup, you will be bowled over by the pumpkin veloute which has a texture akin to a dense foam rather than a traditional soup, a recipe which Chef de Cuisine, Cedric Darthial, is very proud of. The lobster bisque with armagnac is robust in flavour, making each mouthful extremely gratifying. The foie gras au torchon, which is probably the best way to eat foie gras as it allows the least amount of fat loss in the cooking/poaching process, was excellent and had a lovely buttery texture. The black angus steak tartare is only for those who can stomach raw meat with egg. To me, it was not only a work of art, but also very flavourful and paired wonderfully with the accompanying sourdough bread. Aside from grill items, there is also a selection of seafood on the menu including whole dover sole meuniere. If you have room for desserts, try the hazelnut creme brulee with blueberry compote which has a perfectly crisp surface and lovely custardy centre, and which is probably one of the best I’ve had in KL.

For after dinner drinks, the MO Bar is situated alongside the Mandarin Grill and offers an impressive array of single malt whiskies, from the Lowlands, Highlands, Speyside, Islay and Campbeltown & Scottish Isles. These include Quinta Ruban, Glenmorangie and Highland Park from the Highlands, Auchentoshan from the Lowlands, Laphroaig, Ardberg and Quarter Cask from Islay, Aberfeldy, Glenfiddich and Macallan from Speyside and Springbank from Campbeltown. All these are served by the glass, and thus enables one to sample a wider variety at any one time. The atmosphere at the MO Bar is cozy and relaxed, with an interior of oak and dark wood.

Mandarin Grill, on the other hand, has a contemporary feel about it and has a relatively more casual approach to it as opposed to Pacifica, which is more formal. The decor is charming, with LED lights suspended from the ceiling to resemble modern-day chandeliers and paper animal sculptures scattered all over. I expected more of the service, where orders got mixed up along the way, and hopefully things have improved since my visit several weeks back. For a three course meal (without wine), prices approximate RM300 per person (before tax, on average).