Le Midi, Bangsar Shopping Centre

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Symphony in Jellyfish Minor

To those who say that December is the month when everyone winds down at work and takes a breather, I say, “bah humbug!”.  To combat my stress levels at work, I:  (a) eat fruitcake; (b) sing along to Christmas tunes; (c) curse bad drivers.  Solution (a) isn’t so good for the waistline, so I’ve stopped bringing any more fruitcake to work, and solution (b) can get a bit tiresome and repetitive when I have only one Christmas album on my iPhone.  Solution (c)…aaahhh….plenty of arse drivers out there who allow me to test my vocal cords.  My brother insists that Malaysians are offensive (as opposed to defensive) drivers, but I sometimes think that we must surely be a little bit of both to survive the roads of KL.  Bald Eagle loves to speed, especially when his new car can do 0 to 60 in 7.1 seconds, but the fact is that no matter how careful you are, there is no assurance that someone else will exercise the same amount of care as you.  I mean, these days, you have to anticipate people running across highways on a suicide mission while you’re driving at 120km/h on the Fed.

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Alilfatmonkey giving thanks

Despite work, I’m looking forward to Christmas.  I’m halfway through my Christmas shopping, my Christmas tree is already up, and I know the lyrics to all 15 songs on my Christmas album.  Naturally, I haven’t been able to resist enhancing my pictures on this post with Christmas accents even though I was at Le Midi over a month ago (on the invitation of one of its proprietors, Melissa Groot).  Despite her Dutch surname, Mellissa is very much Malaysian, and the restaurant is very much Mediterranean.  Le Midi, in geographical terms, refers to the area south of France covering the Pyrénées to Spain and Italy.  In terms of cuisine, expect hearty soups, seafood and shellfish.

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“A signature French trademark, although traditionally from Brittany, Fruit de mer Frutti di Mare, literally fruits of the sea, is found in almost every town, and dish, from the Aegean to the Atlantic.  Le Midi offers a more typical southern Mediterranean rendition of this mouthwatering bonanza of sea catch.”

The range of seafood and shellfish was astounding.  We were served delicious and briny oysters from France, lobsters, prawns with flesh so sweet that they could have been diabetic inducing, periwinkles and clams, with dips of creamy homemade mayonnaise that was to die for and Echire butter.  I’ve waxed lyrical about Echire butter before; suffice to say that I’m a fan.  You’d probably scoff at the idea of eating seafood with butter, but let me tell you that when you try seafood with a dollop of Echire butter – now that’s a match made in heaven.

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“A French delicacy, and a part of the cultural gastronomical heritage of France, dating all the way back to the Egyptians, then as a luxury dish in ancient Rome, the fattened liver continues to be the king of appetizers.”

The foie gras terrine was very rich.  It was akin to eating a slab of butter on a piece of brioche, with the fig compote slicing through its richness….just slightly.  The preparation of this textured dish was faultless, but I’d probably have enjoyed it more had I not pigged out on Echire butter earlier.  As a matter of preference, I like a quickly seared piece of foie gras with a crisp surface as opposed to a traditionally prepared cold layered terrine.  However, I can appreciate the fact that terrines are comparably more labour intensive thus justifying the higher price tag.

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“Ceviche de Pescado, thinly sliced fish, served raw is deeply rooted within the history of colonial Spain and its variations are found through South American cuisine.”

According to Chef Emmanuel Gaudin, Mahi-Mahi was used in the preparation of this raw fish dish.  (Mahi-Mahi is sweet and less “fishy tasting” compared to other types of fish making it suitable for ceviche.)  The raw fish was cured in lemon juice, sliced very thinly (similar to carpaccio) and served with pesto sauce.

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“From the oldest of Italian traditions, Carpaccio, named after the Venetian painter from 1930s Harry’s Bar is Mediterranean simplicity at its best.”

Beautifully pink, the ultra thin slices of raw meat served with shaved parmigiano regianno and basil pesto sauce was flavourful and exquisite.

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“One of the stars of Le Midi, Bouillabaisse, a fisherman’s dish brings you the authentic flavours of Provence. Literally meaning boiling and simmering, served with rouille and croutons, it is one of the signature dishes of the Mediterranean, and is usually eaten by larger groups of diners, the more the merrier.”

Made with rascasse (an essential fish in the preparation of bouillabaisse), turbot, periwinkle, whelks, mussels and clams, and seasoned with saffron, star anise and fennel, this hearty soup is simmered for three days prior to serving.  It almost seemed out of place in such posh surroundings – a robust dish like a bouillabaisse belongs in similarly robust surroundings – but we were not about to complain about the luxurious settings, the designer furniture and the ethereal dance of the jellyfish which formed part of the gorgeous decor of Le Midi.

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“Creme Brulee is one of the most popular desserts. That probably has to do with the titillating contrast between the cold, creamy custard and the hard, hot layer of burnt sugar. The very first recipes for creme brulee date from the seventeenth century.”

Lightly flavoured with orange blossom, the creme brulee at Le Midi was well prepared with a nicely burnt caramelised surface and creamy custard beneath.  The tiramisu, with a dousing of alcohol, was lovely too.

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“Tiramisu, translating to “pick me up” in Italian, is a popular dessert layered with sweet cream. There are many possible explanations of its origin. Though many claim the dessert may have been made as far back as the Renaissance, some suggest Tiramisu was not made until 1971 by Italian baker, Carminantonio Lannaccone in a small bakery in Treviso, Italy. Italian cookbooks did not include recipes for Tiramisu until the 1980s, when it literally became one of the most popular desserts in Europe and the United States. The dessert is now served in many restaurants and is not exclusive to those restaurants offering Italian fare.”

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Aly getting in the mood for Christmas

For Christmas, Le Midi will be serving a set menu at RM268++.  The menu will include a Mediterranean sesame tuna salad with a fennel, melon and orange vinaigrette, and a Greek moussaka with layers of lamb ragout complemented by eggplant and goat’s cheese.  Mains include an Italian seafood ink ravioli with saffron sauce, and Capon baked in a pistachio crust served with a pomegranate sauce, chestnut puree and roasted vegetables.  Chocolate sacher rounds off the meal.

To usher in the New Year, there is a special 5-course set menu priced at RM298++ per person.  This includes a starter of French Tsaikaya oysters accented with caviar and paired with a watermelon gazpacho.  Also served is a Mediterranean seafood soup as an appetiser.  Mains include grilled lobster with tabouleh followed by a Moroccan lamb tagine with prunes and fava bean falafels paired with a yoghurt mint sauce.  Desserts – homemade pannacotta with wild berries.  I’m getting hungry just thinking about the food!

There is a separate section where one can chill out and enjoy the view of KL’s skyline, where the decor is as stunning as the sights outside.  On Fridays and Saturdays (after 9.30pm), there is live jazz music by the Jose Thomas Jazz Trio – a perfect complement to the live jellyfish “lava lamp”.

Thank you to Melissa Groot and the management of Le Midi for kindly hosting the dinner!

Le Midi
Lot T3, 3rd Floor
Bangsar Shopping Centre
285 Jalan Maarof
Bukit Bandaraya
59000 Kuala Lumpur

Tel: 603-2094 1318

Prime, Le Meridien Kuala Lumpur

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6oz Imperial Wagyu strip loin with braised oxtail in roasted tomato ragout and slow-poached Idaho potato ragout

I like reading about our neighbours down south, and last week, it was about a bear hoax.  (Slow week for you guys, eh?)  It was an amazing example of viral marketing gone wrong and an apt reminder that not everything you read (or view) on the web is gospel truth.  Social media has progressed by leaps and bounds but there is always the pervasive question of how much is too much.  Don’t people consider the consequences of their actions on others any more?

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Freshly baked bread served with three types of butter (made from Echire butter)

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Foie gras experience – charcoal grilled, crème brûlée and terrine

Today’s post is about honest-to-goodness steak, grilled with just salt and pepper, naked and glorious.  If there is an equivalent of shouting on the internet, let me do it now by proclaiming that Prime is my favourite restaurant for good steak.  I go there once in a couple of months when I’m feeling indulgent because I’ve come to realise that there is a linear relationship between good steak and its price, and the enhancement in value is more than just marginal.

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Wagyu prime rib – 1 kilogram

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Seared sea scallops, parmesan potato, poached egg, fresh herbs dressing

Prime has a good selection of steaks to choose from.   My favourite order of all time (when there is company and a hearty appetite) is the Wagyu Prime Rib, a robust 1 kilogram slab of meat with an unhealthy (but extremely satisfying) portion of intra-muscular fat cells that literally allow the meat to melt in the mouth with every bite.   The meat is succulent and sweet, but I’m still fighting a losing battle when it comes to finishing a 500-gram portion.  I admit, I’m a wimp.

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Slices of Blackmore Wagyu beef oyster blade served with beef consomme, Asian spices, noodles (see below) and sesame sauce (not available on the menu now)

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140 grams braised Blackmore Wagyu beef with homemade BBQ sauce

Bald Eagle and I were at Prime a couple of months back to celebrate my birthday, and coincidentally, it was during the Blackmore Wagyu Beef promotion (which ended in August).   The Blackmore Wagyu beef is apparently known for its high marbling (score of 9+) which results in a smooth, buttery taste.   The feed is free from genetically modified foods (a secret ration developed over the past ten years) and the calves are fed this special ration for between 500 and 600 days.  Even though the Blackmore Wagyu promotion has ended, Prime has included it in its ala carte menu where a 220g striploin goes for RM388.

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Imperial Wagyu cube roll (220 grams) served with bone marrow creme brulee

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Imperial Wagyu tenderloin (220 grams)

Prime’s current promotion is the Imperial Wagyu beef.   Like the Blackmore wagyu, the calves are fed on an antiobiotic-free, hormone-free diet and the meat purportedly contains 30% more Omega 3 and 6 fatty acids. (Contrary to what you may think, there is no fishy smell hehe!)  This food-tasting session was courtesy of Ms Cheryl Lum of Le Meridien KL, and thanks to our numbers (all of three!) we got to try the tenderloin, striploin and cube roll (ribeye).   I liked the cube roll thanks to its lovely marbling and robust flavour; the tenderloin was a lot more subtle in flavour and a bit of a letdown when compared to the other cuts.   The charcoal grilling lent the meats a beautiful aroma and none of the meats were adulterated with sauces or other obtrusive flavours.

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Chilled mango cheesecake, crackers crumble, coconut cream jelly and chocolate

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Crêpe Suzette, preserved orange zest, rich vanilla ice cream (Cointreau liquor upon request only)

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Rich hot chocolate cake, chocolate sauce, stracciatella ice cream (my birthday treat)

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Rich hot chocolate cake, chocolate sauce

Other types of steaks are available at Prime too – Australian Black Angus (200 days grain fed, 120 days grain fed, gourmet pasture-fed), Organic Australian beef, USDA choice grade beef and Australian Master Kobe.  Different cuts are available, and done to your preference.   A whole array of sauces are available as well.  For those who do not eat beef, Prime also serves seafood, lamb and chicken.  I loved one of our starters, a pan seared scallop dish with poached egg that was done perfectly, both warm and wobbly.

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Jago’s Vanilla Vodka Cream Liquor

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Bald Eagle and I indulged in a bottle of Moet et Chandon for my birthday…if only everyday could be my birthday…..

Note: The above post is from a combination of two visits, the first was my birthday celebration in August while the second, an invited review from Le Meridien two weeks ago.

Prime
Le Meridien Kuala Lumpur
2 Jalan Stesen Sentral, KL.

Tel: 03-2263 7888

Senses at KL Hilton – MIGF Festival Menu 2010

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I have my reasons for not being overly excited about the Malaysia International Gourmet Festival (MIGF) but upon chatting with Michael Elfwing, the Chef de Cuisine of Senses at KL Hilton, I realised that I had been thinking only from my perspective and had not considered the chef’s point of view.  “This is the opportunity for the chef to shine,” he said.  “In the MIGF, the spotlight is on the chef, and I’m excited to be a part of this.”  He said it with such honesty and earnestness that I felt like I had to re-examine my reasons for not being a fan.

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If it weren’t for Michael, who happens to be a personal friend as well, I could probably go through this month without trying any MIGF menus.  Thanks to him and the PR folk behind KL Hilton, Bald Eagle and I were invited to dine at Senses as their guests. Together with Chynna and Iketeru, the restaurants from KL Hilton were participating in the MIGF for the 6th consecutive year following the theme “Three Outlets, Three Chefs, three Festival Promotions And A Michelin Starred Chef”. One of the highlights of the festival is the special guest chef appearance of Chef Christopher Coutanceau (from 14 to 16 October 2010) from 2-Michelin starred restaurant, La Rochelle in France.

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I subscribe to Michael Elfwing’s Flickr feed, and was already somewhat aware of what he was going to offer to his guests, but as you already know, seeing something doesn’t evoke the same sensation as being present and eating it. All senses are employed, tickled and tantalised with a menu such as that presented at Senses right from the beginning when the edible menu is placed before you. It is a novelty to eat the menu (made of potato starch and printed with edible ink), served with taramasalata (fish roe dip), but before you know it, it’s all gone and you wonder how you’ll be able to tell what your subsequent dishes are!

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A word on the butter at Senses – I used to be bowled over by Echire butter (known as one of the best butters in France), but after trying Bordier butter at Senses, I can’t imagine ever eating anything else again. It is an artisanal butter created by a Frenchman, Jean-Yves Bordier, and is made slowly by hand.   The resultant flavour is intense and creamy, a little on the salty side, and immensely and exceedingly enjoyable.

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Canapes were served together with the edible menu – an egg shell filled with scrambled egg espuma, a sponge with miso inspired by Paco Roncero, and Senses’ trademark macarons filled with foie gras.  As this was not meant to be a dessert macaron, the macaron was denser and less sweet than normal, and when you think about it, a whole lot of experimenting has to be carried out to achieve the texture with the use of less sugar or a sugar substitute.

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I first ate a salad in the guise of a flower pot at the Mandarin Grill at Mandarin Oriental Hong Kong.  I remember falling in love with the presentation then (as an added bonus, the vinaigrette was sprinkled onto the pot with a tiny watering can), and seeing the Organic Flower Pot at Senses, I couldn’t help but draw parallels with my dinner at the Mandarin Grill HK.  The fact is, save for a handful, no particular menu is exceptionally revolutionary and chefs inspire other chefs; at the end of the day, we benefit from their continual feeding off of each other’s minds.

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Heston Blumenthal dreamt of a gold leaf soup for his latest menu, which in turn is Michael’s inspiration to create a Golden Tea soup, essentially dried consomme wrapped in gold leaf and held together on a string, much like a tea bag.  Hot water is poured onto it and the package dissolves into a soup.  Very thinly sliced lamb tongue provides a burst of intense flavour.

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One may see the Smoked Jade Tiger Abalone salad as a departure from the Modern Australian cuisine which Senses boasts of, but as Michael claims, abalone is as much an integral part of Australian cuisine as it is in Chinese cuisine.  Sliced abalones braised with konbu, smoked mushrooms and sea lettuce make up the dish that is presented on a stone atop a piece of smoked cedarwood.  The cedarwood is more aesthetic here as opposed to  the subsequent dish where cedarwood is used in the baking process for the organic beef cheek.  Nevertheless, we enjoyed this dish, particularly the synergy achieved from the combination of the konbu and sea lettuce with the abalone.

senses collage

The menu at Senses is as much theatrical as it is functional as demonstrated in the main course – the Stanbroke Organic Beef baked in clay.  A piece of beef cheek is slow cooked after barding with truffles, encased in cedarwood and clay and then baked.  The “package” is rolled out on a trolley and cracked to reveal the tender meat within.

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Despite the performance, I preferred the lesser star of the evening, the Dorper lamb rack.  I was mesmerized by the tiny rack, probably about a third of my fist, and what captivated me the most was the flavour – it was sweet but mild and very succulent.  The cooking technique involved preparing it in truffle gel, a molecular technique which enabled the truffle jus to adhere to the flesh, and this ensured that the flavours were evenly spread over the rack.  The accompanying French lentils did nothing for me as I’m not a fan.

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Our palate cleanser was inspired by Michael’s Scandinavian heritage – a roughly grated frost with violet meringue, vanilla gel, gin and leatherwood honey.  Dried berries complemented this fragrant mound of ice.

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I expected our desserts to be three dimensional like our earlier dishes, but it came presented as naive art within a picture frame.  The flower petals were a jelly like texture made of poppy flower extract mixed with Ivoire chocolate and water.  We loved the banana ice cream that was served together with the “flower”.

The menu is available at Senses from 1 – 31 October 2010 at RM318++ per person (without wine pairing) and RM398++ per person (with wine pairing).  Hilton Premium Card members will enjoy a 10% discount off on food only.

Thank you, Michael Elfwing and KL Hilton for your kind invitation!

Senses
Hilton Kuala Lumpur
3 Jalan Stesen Sentral, KL

Tel: 03-2264 2592/2596

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