Sage, The Gardens

1.

Every couple of years, Bald Eagle disappears on his personal search for the Holy Grail, and this year, on his birthday, he was in Austria doing the Mexican Wave while celebrating Fernando Torres’ goal for Spain against Germany in the Euro 2008.  Now, this was going on while the good wife was at home, in Malaysia, meekly counting the days before his return, thinking of nothing else but of the immense love she had for her husband.

Yeah.

Absolutely.

So naturally, there was no way of celebrating his birthday then.  And when he did come back, the good wife fretted over where to take him for his birthday.  Being the man about town, he had wined and dined at the best places, some of which the good wife was hardly able to get a whiff of.  She eventually decided (and a good decision, it was) to wait till Sage opened its doors at The Gardens.  And so, upon hearing the good news, she immediately made reservations for Friday, October 3, and announced that it was his birthday.

2.

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Freshly baked bread

“It’s good to be back.  I’ve missed Cilantro.”

“I’ve missed Cilantro too.”

And that was how the conversation started with the waiter.  After months of speculating when Sage would open its doors while quietly reading and re-reading about days gone by at its sister restaurant, Cilantro (currently under renovation), we greeted Sage’s opening with whoops of joy.  But really, did Sage measure up to our expectations?

“There’s no truffle butter.”

It was one of the things that I looked forward to, seeing that Chef Takashi Kimura from Cilantro was at the helm. But the fact is, Sage, despite resembling Cilantro in so many ways (including the furnishings, which I expect will be changed once they complete their refurbishments), was not Cilantro.  The truffle butter was a Cilantro trademark, and Sage will have to find or create its own. Instead of serving butter, a fragrant guava-scented olive oil was served as a dip for the freshly baked breads.

But if Sage wants to be distinctive from Cilantro, but yet serves French-Japanese cuisine, then it will be an uphill task as invariably, Cilantro regulars will ask the same question.  How is Sage different from Cilantro?  I do like Sage’s credo, though, something that is fast catching on overseas but has yet to be widely practised here, that is their concept of sourcing the freshest ingredients, from the farmers and suppliers to the kitchen and finally to the table.  This brings to mind an article which I read several months back on food miles.  To put it simply, to what extent have we considered the environmental impact that results from bringing our food to our plate? 

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Amuse bouche

“Compliments of the chef, ma’am.”

It is always exciting to see what the amuse bouche will be. This one was a spoonful of risotto topped with lightly seared scallop.  The risotto was creamy and the scallop fresh, enough for me to readily order the risotto dish the next time I visit Sage. (That is, if the foie gras doesn’t get to me first.)

We ordered from a menu that offered sets.  Bear in mind that these sets are far from the typical set meals that are available in other restaurants which hardly offer worthy choices.  There are two choices of dinner sets – Sage, consisting of an appetiser, main course and dessert, and Gourmet, which comprises all the earlier items and a Chef’s Special of the Day. The price difference is only RM20, with the Gourmet dinner set priced at RM140. What’s good about these sets is that one gets a choice of any of the items on the Ala Carte menu (save for the last 4 items).  I can’t imagine anyone not wanting to order from the set, seeing that the items, once added up individually, cost close to RM170 (without the Chef’s Special).

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Chef’s Special of the Day

At this point, who should walk in but a very prominent Minister (some say, the future Prime Minister of Malaysia, but dare I be so presumptuous?) and his entourage of bodyguards clad in batik. I looked at Bald Eagle. “You look tougher than them.” After all, it’s hard to take someone seriously when he’s wearing a floral shirt. Even if he’s carrying a gun.

The Brittany oysters, topped with a little fresh cream, was enough to take me to paradise and back. Even the special guests didn’t distract me.  The oysters were so amazingly good.

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Feuillete of Anago with Foie Gras and Artichoke Puree

“And what will Madam have for her starter?”

“I’ll have the…errr…feulle…err….”

“Ah, the Feuillete of Anago and Foie Gras!”

Bald Eagle rolled his eyes. “Your french is terrible!” he muttered under his breath.

I showed him my tongue.

I’m glad that I am able to achieve multiple orgasms. This dish was like making love for the first time, providing pleasure with every bite. Anago, a saltwater eel, was cooked together with the most deliciously fatty foie gras (this word can be so politically incorrect these days, but that’s how temptation is, isn’t it? When the desires of the flesh far exceed all human rationality). I let out a shudder as I tasted it, bit by bit. It was perfection on a plate.

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Konbujime of Wagyu Beef with Karashi Mustard and Recola

“That’s a pretty fancy name for carpaccio with rocket, isn’t it?”

The maid carrying the grandson of the prominent Minister walked by. She smiled and tried to get the grandson, clad in a Shanghai Tang t-shirt to look out way. I glanced at Bald Eagle. “If the minister knew that the maid was trying to get the kid to mingle with us, the rakyat, he wouldn’t be very pleased, would he?”

He took a bite of his wagyu carpaccio, choosing to ignore my idle chatter and preferring to concentrate on his starter instead. By the way, I shall have to refrain from describing his food, no matter how delectable it looks, because it is hard to give an opinion on something that one has only taken a tiny bite of. Anyhow, he decided that he was able to make a better judgement, pronouncing my starter the better of the two. Not that the wagyu was bad. Far from it. The beautifully marbled slice (albeit a tiny one in my mouth) was delicious.

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Two way preparation of Guinea Fowl and Sauteed Scallion

Fully clothed….

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Two way preparation of Guinea Fowl and Sauteed Scallion

…and undressed.

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Lightly salted Cod with Foie Gras, Roasted in Wood Paper

Fully clothed….

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Lightly salted Cod with Foie Gras, Roasted in Wood Paper

…and undressed.

“Do you think they’ll ask me to stop taking photographs? After all, he is a VVIP, you know…”

I was shooting with a bulky Canon EOS 1D, looking quite like the paparazzi. The last thing I needed was a man in a flowery shirt toting a gun asking me to give up my memory card.

“And what will Madam have for her main course?” the affable waiter had asked me earlier.

“I’ll have the cod with foie gras, please,” I replied, feeling a little relieved that I was able to pronounce all the words.

“Foie gras again, madam?” he sounded amused.

I looked slightly guilty.  Just slightly.

The slice of cod was cooked to perfection.  Each segment of the fatty fish fell off easily; and the foie gras, this time, was a little firmer to the touch compared to my starter.  The roasting of the fish and liver in wood paper created a very slight smoky flavour to the dish, but it certainly didn’t distract from the star of the plate – the cod. 

Bald Eagle’s guinea fowl was prepared in 2 styles.  One baked in a pastry casing, and the other, grilled.

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Calvados Flambe of Apple with Almond Crumble and Vanilla Ice Cream

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Ricotta Souffle served with Espresso Sorbet

“Are you ready to order desserts, madam?”

“I can’t decide,” I said ruefully. “Can you suggest something?”

“The almond blanc manger is delightful.”

“Isn’t that a jelly?” I made a face.  “I’ll go with the ricotta souffle, please.”

Under his breath, Bald Eagle muttered “women”.

Of course, the last laugh was on him.  He was expecting his dessert flambéed, and it obviously was – in the kitchen, not in front of him. So what turned up was an apple and ice cream. The accompanying syrup was some kind of treacle, sweet and slightly bitter, a very good foil for the sweetness of the fruit.

Oh and my ricotta souffle? The espresso sorbet was strong and very good, and the souffle, very light and puffy.  It was like eating a piece of ricotta cloud.  I loved it.

Coffee/tea at the end of the meal is part of the set.

The prominent minister was easily forgotten as I had probably one of my best meals in a very long time. This is one of those rare moments when everything falls together. Attentive and personalised service, knowledgeable staff, pleasant atmosphere, smiling chef, and best of all, the most wonderful date in the world. It was an evening where nothing could go wrong. We spent the evening chatting and laughing, the chemistry in our relationship quite evident as we shared nuggets of our lives with each other.

And I think at that moment, he forgave me for forgetting his birthday.

Sage
The Gardens Residences (same side as Isetan)
6th Floor, The Gardens
Mid Valley City
Lingkaran Syed Putra
59200 Kuala Lumpur.

For reservations, call: 03-2268 1188

Note: Please make reservations in advance.  (I know people who have called the day before and have been turned down.)  Sage is currently serving dinner only, 6.00pm to 10.30pm.

Paradise Palace, Sogo Shopping Centre

Forget Me Not
Forget Me Not

My birthday celebrations officially ended on Sunday, the 28th of September 2008 (a little over a month after the actual day), at about the same time that Felipe Massa of Ferrari drove off from the pitstop with a length of hose trailing behind him, with a very stunned mechanic at the end of it, but hey, who was I to complain about the very rude and untimely interruption to my homecooked birthday dinner?  Mmmm….delicious prawns, Mum….tell me the secret of this lovely pork dish…..whooooosh….hey….where’s everyone?  Hello?  Seriously, Massa could have chosen a better time to pull that stunt.  I insist on a replay.  Of the homecooked dinner, I mean.  And I want all TV sets to be turned off.

So yeah, the grand finale was the dinner hosted at my parents’ place, ending with that lovely sour cream coffee walnut cake kindly baked by Fatboybakes.  My mum’s amazing.  Choosing not to be complacent about cooking, she is still experimenting with new recipes.  We try asking for the recipes sometimes, and she gives us a cheeky look.  It’s just an easy recipe, she says.  Easy for Gordon Ramsay, probably, but hello, we’re talking about your daughter here.  The amateur bumbling mess who is the poster child for Murphy.

Chicken Padamyar
Chicken Padamyar

I was the lucky recipient of a birthday lunch on the same day, a lovely treat from the Weekend B^*ch © who had postponed our last appointment due to his jetsetting lifestyle.  If the lunch had been timed for a month earlier, it would have been a stress-free experience.  But last Sunday?  What ought to have been a rather leisurely trip to Paradise Palace turned out to be a horrifying journey to traffic hell.  It would have taken a very desperate person to brave the jams in busy Jalan Tuanku Abdul Rahman on the last weekend of Hari Raya only to encounter blocked exits along Jalan TAR and other nonsensical diversions, and to ultimately realise that the only way to enter the Sogo carpark would be to bulldoze through a third of the population of KL who were trying to take advantage of the last few days of the Raya sales.  So after a roundabout trip to nowhere, I was back to square one.  The LRT station in a quieter side of Kuala Lumpur.  I know he was trying his best not to say I told you so, but can you blame me for trying?  We finally arrived at Sogo, an hour after my failed attempt at driving there, in true rakyat style.

I admit I know little of Burmese food.  I was reading a paper written by the International Federation of Human Rights (FIDH) on Undocumented migrants and refugees in Malaysia: Raids, Detention and Discrimination which indicated that out of 1.8 million migrant workers registered with the Ministry of Home Affairs (and mind you, this is a small percentage of the total number of migrant workers, including those who have come in illegally), Burmese workers form the fourth largest group of migrant workers in Malaysia.  As such, it is a pity that despite the vast number of migrant workers in the country, we know so little of them, their food, and their culture.

The restaurant has been around for a long time.  Situated at a corner on the 6th floor of the mall, one can’t miss the ostentatious and elaborate gold decorations fringing the facade of the restaurant.  Save for a few carvings and statues, the decor inside is simple.

Mohingar
Mohingar

The first thing that comes to mind after sampling Myanmar cuisine is that the food isn’t as spicy as I expected it to be.  Mohingar, an ubiquitous Myanmar dish, resembles our local Malay version of the assam laksa with a soup base made of fish, cooked to a dark broth, and served with rice vermicelli.  The soup has the distinct taste of lemongrass and prawn paste.  Apparently, dhal powder and rice flour are also used, but these are not so easily discernible.  Chopped coriander leaves enhance the flavour of the dish, while a spritz of lime juice lifts the flavour. The noodles lack the springiness of our local vermicelli, and thus, it is easy to eat it with just a chinese soup spoon.

Sour Radish Soup
Sour Radish Soup 

The Sour Radish Soup is precisely that – sour, due to the liberal use of tamarind juice.  It feels more of an appetiser to prepare the palate for other spicier dishes.  What I really enjoyed was a dish that was strangely named Forget Me Not.  Basically a steamed hilsa fish, it is cooked with lemongrass and tomatoes and tastes very much like our local sardines in a can.  It is amusing to see the description in the menu ending with Wow! Bones can Chew.  (I like the enthusiasm!)

Fried Roselle Leaves
Fried Roselle Leaves

Less exciting is the Fried Roselle Leaves, perhaps because it is more of an acquired taste.  The flavour is sharp and immensely sour, and the pungent smell of the dish comes from the bamboo shoots that are cooked with the leaves.  The Chicken Padamyar is rather ordinary, has a strong cumin flavour and is less spicy than a south indian chicken curry, but satisfying, nevertheless.

3 colour tea
Three colour tea

Tea is a favourite beverage of the people of Myanmar (but apparently, coffee culture is fast catching up there).  A quarter of the glass is filled with thick condensed milk and  then topped with a milky tea while the final layer is a clear thin tea.  I am not sure if the layers are aesthetic or functional, but be warned that this tea is extremely sweet.

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Lemongrass Butter Cake

And as a final treat, he baked me a lemongrass butter cake, oozing masculinity, in true HairyBerry style. It was an amazingly delicious cake that was complex in flavours and reminded me of Hari Raya.

I have no basis for comparison, and I am not sure whether the food at Paradise Palace is dumbed down for Malaysian palates or if the borderless world extends to our cuisines as well.  The flavours are familiar and it is almost like eating at home.  Comforting.

For other reviews, check out Masak-Masak.

Paradise Palace
6th Floor, Sogo Shopping Centre
Jalan Tuanku Abdul Rahman
Kuala Lumpur.

Tel: 03-26942175

Halal.

 

And on a final note, Selamat Hari Raya Aidil Fitri to all my Muslim readers!

When you think you’ve seen it all….

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What do you get when you pair a seemingly innocent kid….

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…with a sour cream coffee walnut cake?

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You get a broken birthday candle….

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…..perhaps, a slice of cake too…..

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….and a very satisfied customer!

Credits:
Sour cream coffee walnut cake by Fatboybakes. (He takes orders)
“Seemingly innocent kid” – nephew of Lyrical Lemongrass

Rave reviews:
“Fatboybakes’ cakes are getting better and better!!” – father of “seemingly innocent kid”
“Wow! This is an amazing cake!! Not too sweet, and tastes wonderful with coffee!” – grandfather of “seemingly innocent kid”
“I love the crumble topping!” – mother of “seemingly innocent kid”
“Light on the palate. The walnuts/brown sugar/cinnamon combo is fantastic!!” – Lyrical Lemongrass
“Mummy, may I have somemore?” – kid

Not so rave reviews:
“Can I have Fatboybakes’ chocolate cake for Deepavali?” – matriarch of the house