Bun Cha in Hanoi

spices

The internet has liberated a new kind of beast.  In the NST yesterday, it was reported that Ah Longs (loan sharks) used Facebook to humiliate their debtors.  Gone are the days of splashing red paint on the doors.  It does look like the more access you have to public media, be it Facebook or Twitter or blogging, the more susceptible you are to being victimized.  And talking about Facebook, even our Prime Minister has his own Facebook page now.  It’s a little unnerving to learn that he likes Ronan Keating’s When You Say Nothing At All. “In my spare time I focus on Sunday family lunches, watching TV with my kids and going on holidays.” I don’t know about you, but this is as bad as finding out that your parents have sex.  Anyway, back to Ah Longs and the perils of the internet, it got me thinking of all my misdeeds in the past.  About a month back, I was in a car chase with an incorrigibly fractious driver.  I had anger management issues then, and decided to snap photographs of the rodent in question (and petulantly indicated to him that I was doing it).  Well, he got peeved about being caught on my iPhone, so he reciprocated by snapping my picture instead.  A cat and mouse chase ensued and numerous pictures were captured on each other’s cameras.  I reckon that photographs of me and my car are floating around the internet by now.  I hope he at least had the decency to photoshop my mug to tone down my maniacal expression.  (It wouldn’t hurt to make me look slimmer as well.)  I have since addressed my anger issues as I’ve realised that the only person I’m hurting when I get upset in traffic is myself.  This newfound zen is sometimes forgotten, though.  About a week ago, Bald Eagle and I were in Hanoi to celebrate our 9th wedding anniversary.  We had obtained free tickets on a particular airlines early this year to fly to Hanoi on the 10th and back to KL on 11 November.   We were pleased as Punch with our amazing deal.  Lesson learnt post 11 November: A deal is only good when it’s real.  In simple terms, there is no such thing as a free meal.  The airlines cancelled our return flight without informing us, and I was kicking their flimsy door down with my size 7 feet at the Hanoi International Airport.  Other lesson learnt: Size 7 feet don’t create much of a dent.  It’s as good as nudging your boobies against the door expecting the door to fall off the hinge.

It’s just as well that our only negative experience occurred at the end of our holiday.  I’m not good at hiding my feelings.  When I travel, my face lights up in wonderment and I am 21 again, young with wide-eyed naivety.  The joy of discovering a new place and meeting new people envelopes my whole being and I’m literally radiating in a warm aura.  A pity that I lose it the instant that I am back at work.

hanoi

Our first meal in Hanoi, at a restaurant located just 20 metres away from our hotel, was bun cha that came highly recommended by Paprika and Sze.  Bun cha is generally eaten at lunchtime, and popular restaurants or stalls get filled up pretty fast.  Not knowing what to expect, we were ushered upstairs where even more tables were available.  Before we could even start with our sign language (English is hardly spoken in Hanoi), several types of receptacles were placed before us.

bun cha ingredients

We merely stared at the array of delicious looking food.  A mountainous plate of rice vermicelli, clumped together in a sticky mess, a bowl of pork patties that had just been grilled, evidence of hardened charred bits floating in a soup that tasted of rice wine and fish sauce, a large mound of herbs and greens, some tasting very much like our local ulam, a bowl of thinly sliced young papaya in the same soupy liquid as the pork patties, some coarsely chopped chilli and garlic for more punch, and a plate of nem, crispy fried spring rolls bursting with minced pork.

“So,” I looked to my husband, “how does one eat this?”

Bun Cha

Seeing our puzzled look, one of the servers came over and proceeded to pile in the ingredients into our bowls, starting with some noodles, followed by some of the tart sweet savoury nuoc cham sauce to flavour the noodles, then the grilled pork, a portion of spring rolls, some sliced papaya, garlic and chilli and finally topped with the greens.  The resultant dish, so quickly assembled, resembled a noodle salad.  We ate up everything in sight.

I still have memories of that first meal.  We ate a lot more after that; in fact, it was two days of non-stop eating from typical street food to the finest french restaurants.  We drank copious amounts of Vietnamese coffee flavoured with sweetened condensed milk.  But that first meal hit the mark on my gastronomic quest.

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I wonder if one day, there will be an online voting for our favourite Ah Long on Facebook?  And whether our Prime Minister will be voting since he has his own Facebook account?

Bun Cha
Hang Manh Street (Old Quarters)
Hanoi

Hairy Crabs At Dragon-i And An Old Fashioned Love Story

Hairy Crab

Once upon a time, there lived a young female mitten crab named Sally.   She was a tiny little crustacean, less than 10 centimetres wide, and had pincers covered with dense patches of hair.   Thankfully, Brazilians were not the vogue for females like Sally, and she reveled in her hirsuteness.   She laughed and frolicked and basked in the summer warmth in the river that she called her home.  But for all the gaiety in that river with her hairy little friends, she felt empty inside.  As she approached adulthood, she felt certain yearnings, feelings that could not be satisfied in her swirling gurgling home.   The weather was cool, a sure sign that autumn was approaching, and leaves of orange and gold floated along the river bed, painting the water an earthen shade of copper and rust.   Her instincts told her to head towards the estuary.  She didn’t know why she had to leave her home.   She only knew that she had to.  As she approached the estuary, she was greeted by other young adult mitten crabs just like her, discovering their new home in saline waters.  It was there that she found love.   He was a chappie named Henry (What? Were you expecting Harry?), bristly, stubbly and sexy.  Together, they danced and mated in the luxuriant marine waters, and because no one taught them about birth control,  Sally quickly discovered that she was pregnant.   As the dark wintry days approached, she moved further into the cold marine waters.   Love knows no bounds, they say, and Sally knew that this was her destiny.   As her young ones hatched, Sally drew her last breath.   The little orphans fed on plankton, and when the weather turned from winter to spring, they swam towards the brackish water where Henry met Sally, and when they were old enough, they moved to Sally’s old home, where the freshwaters gleamed in the warm summer sun.

This is an old fashioned love story.   Perhaps romance between crabs isn’t anything like what we humans picture it to be, but all the elements of survival, reproduction and attachment are there.   Mitten (or hairy) crabs have a unique life cycle where they move from brackish waters to clear waters and back to saline waters over one life cycle (about 5 years).   The best time to eat hairy crabs is in Autumn just after the mating season.  Hairy crabs are prized for their creamy roe – what is generally called the Caviar of the East.  Crabs that hail from the Yang Cheng Lake are the most sought after, but crabs from the Tai Lake, China’s largest freshwater lake, are fast gaining popularity here in Malaysia.  Having tried both, the differences are subtle, although the crabs from Yang Cheng Lake have slightly creamier roe and sweeter flesh.

The Hairy Crab Set Menu at Dragon-i (available from October to December), priced at RM128 nett per person (for a minimum of 3 persons), features a six-course Shanghainese meal at outlets at Pavilion KL, 1 Utama Shopping Centre, The Curve, Mid Valley Megamall, Sunway Pyramid and Queensbay Mall in Penang.   The diner gets one medium crab weighing at approximately 200grams (larger ones are also available, ala carte and priced according to weight, at between 250 to 300 grams each).  Hairy crabs at Dragon-i are from Suzhou’s Tai Lake (flown in weekly).   Black vinegar and julienned ginger are provided on the side, and these serve a purpose too.   Hairy crabs are said to be “cooling”, and the vinegar and ginger concoction counteracts this effect.  One can also choose to enjoy the hairy crabs with Chinese “hua diao jiu” (rice wine), but this does not come with the set.

The menu also includes Dragon-i’s signature Steamed Shanghainese Dumplings (xiu long bao) with Hairy Crab Roe, Double-boiled Superior Chicken Soup with Fish Maw and Bamboo Pith (a very delicately flavoured soup with contrasting textures), Sauteed Vegetables (baby bok choi) with Crab Roe, Yong Chow style Fried Rice and a popular traditional dessert, Sesame Glutinous Rice Dumplings (tong yuen) in Ginger Broth.  The servings are moderate; each person is served one crab, one XLB, and two glutinous rice dumplings.  The XLB has good skin elasticity and delicious filling.   It comes attractively presented on individual carrying baskets, thus preventing mishaps when transporting the XLB from serving plate to one’s own plate.  The fried rice is substantial (with its lovely fragrance and distinct grains) and the vegetables, sufficient.

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Can’t live without chilli

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Double boiled Superior Chicken Soup with Fish Maw and Bamboo Pith

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Sauteed Vegetables with Crab Roe

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Xiao Long Bao with Hairy Crab Roe

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Yong Chow style Fried Rice

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Sally’s children – steamed

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Sally’s children, Part 2 – creamy roe within

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Yangzhou-born Chef Kung Yu Hung – has over 20 years experience including stints at several famous Hong Kong restaurants. He is one of six master chefs from mainland China now helming the kitchens at Dragon-i outlets.

www.dragon-i.com.my

(Note: Thank you to the management of Dragon-i and PRkraft (who facilitated this event) for your kind invitation to sample this menu.)

Weissbräu, Pavilion Kuala Lumpur.

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Weissbräu is like an EU Summit; a bite of Austrian schnitzel, some hefty German pork knuckles and a visiting Swiss roesti helmed by a jolly Frenchman called Chavanne.  In essence, it is a German Bistro with a very casual atmosphere in a semi-open air space just opposite La Bodega on Level 3 of the Pavilion.

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Almost all the mains come with a choice of sides, either sauerkraut (shredded cabbage in white wine vinegar) or market vegetables, garlic mash, spaetzli (homemade egg noodles), roesti (shredded potato pan-fried in clarified butter), french fries or potato salad.   While roesti isn’t German, this popular Swiss dish has transcended borders and found its way into the menu.  If you insist on being a purist, then order the spaetzli.   At Weissbräu, they make their own spaetzli from scratch with a device brought in from Germany that allows the dough (flour, egg, salt) to be pressed into boiling water.   When the dough rises to the surface, it is removed from the boiling water and put into iced water to stop the cooking process.  The spaetzli is then fried with butter and served.   My dining companions likened it to fried pancake, and reckoned it would go better with some honey and syrup.  Hehe.  The spaetzli can also be ordered as a dish on its own, either plain, or cooked with cheese, ham or carbonara sauce.

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First pic: Nürnberger. Second pic: Schüblig

When it comes to sausages, Germans like their Nürnberger bratwurst, a relatively skinny sausage with spicy, chunky pork meat.   The sausages served in Weissbräu are either imported or sourced from a German man in Malaysia; when cooked, the meat is juicy and extremely flavourful, perhaps a little salty but contrasts well with the sauerkraut on the side.   The Schüblig sausage is a lot more manly, three times the size of the Nürnberger, but as we all know, size isn’t everything.  (Just as well I’m not Catholic or I’ll need to go to Confession now.)   The Schüblig is bigger, softer and smoother than its skinnier counterpart, and contains a blend of secret spices, non-fat dried milk and onions and is lightly smoked.   Also tasty.   The sauce that is poured onto the sausages is made from the lardy drippings from roasting pork knuckles (be still my beating heart), then reduced with red wine and onions, creating a highly addictive sauce that complements the dish so well.

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weissbrau
First pic: Pork loin and bacon. Second pic: German pork knuckles

I like the smoked pork loin and bacon which was surprisingly not salty.   The dish is served with horseradish and mustard sauce.   Despite that, it pales in comparison with the German pork knuckles which are available in two sizes, “single” and “two to four persons”.   The single serving is pretty large, though, weighing in at approximately 400 grams and can easily satisfy two moderately hungry people.  Like your typical German pork knuckle, the skin is crispy and crunchy.  The meat, however, is moist and literally falls off the bone in delicate form.   This is probably the best German pork knuckles I’ve eaten in a long time.

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Flammkuchen

A good snack that goes wonderfully with beer is Flammkuchen, a flat bread with toppings that resembles a pizza.  Ours was topped with a generous amount of bacon and onions and was very good.

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Interestingly enough, the menu is one that tries to please as many people as they can.   One very strange item on the menu is the Chinese Roasted Pork (Siu Yoke), but I figure it would go well with beer anyway, and since it’s a German Bistro that serves a good variety of beer on tap like Carlsberg, Hoegaarden, Franziskaner and Leffe Blonde, and an even longer list of bottled beer like Paulaner, Lowenbrau, Becks, Konid Ludwig and Grolsch, it makes sense to enjoy a salty snack like Siu Yoke while drinking.

Weissbräu
Level 3, Pavilion (walkway with restaurants)
Tel: 03-2142 0288

Opens at 10:00am daily to 1:00am (open till 2:00am on Friday & Saturday)

Happy hours throughout the day till 9:00pm

For more reviews, check out Sean’s blog.